From Rebuke To Rejoicing

Book Description

Dougal Haston was a man of extremes. Combining a hedonistic lifestyle with a career at the cutting edge of world mountaineering, he remains, even in death, a figure whose deeds have inspired climbers worldwide. His good looks, exceptional talent, egocentricity, and obsession have ensured that his legend extends far beyond the climbing fraternity. Connor traces Haston's career from Scotland to the heights of Everest, Anapurna, and Mount McKinley; from his working-class background in the small village of Currie through his antiestablishment years in college and the fatal accident that drove him abroad; to his fearsome drinking and womanizing and, eventually, fulfillment and peace. This is the definitive biography of one of mountaineering's most exciting, charismatic, and controversial figures, containing fascinating extracts from Haston's own journals and diaries.

Customer Reviews:

Left wondering..........2004-10-16

I was left wondering after reading this book.. Not about Dougal Haston, but at the motives of the author, someone (I had never heard of) named Jeff Connor.
You would think that someone who had this much (supposed) access to Mr. Haston's private journals, and interviews from nearly everyone who knew him, would at least produce a book that someone might recommend to a friend! Not so, in this case! This is absolutely the very worst written book I have ever read!
This book starts as a very slow read. Connor describes all these different local climbing groups (which no one ever heard of, or wanted to hear about) who somehow were at war with each other! He lists all of Mr. Haston's early climbs (with no map of course, so no one outside of Scotland has a clue of what he is talking about!). But there is a reason for Connor's dwelling on these early climbs. He is trying (hard) to make one point: Dougal Haston was NOT the best climber in Britian, not even in Scotland! A young man named Robin Smith was! Smith was a young climber in Scotland about the same time as Haston. He dies in the Pimar's in 1962. (One previous reviewer mentioned that they could not understand Connor's choice of subjects for his book -Haston- when he clearly took great pains to tell the world, repeatedly, that Smith was Haston's better in every way! Nor could I understand it at first, since he clearly prefered Smith to Haston. But.... JUST LOOK at the cover of this book.. Dougal Haston's name is in far larger letters than Connors. How many copies of this book would have sold with Robin Smith's name on the cover? Not taking anything away from Mr. Smith.. By all reports he was a first class climber!) The author speculates repeatedly about what the future fate of Haston would have been had Smith survived his Pimar climbs. The implication is clear. The author obviously beleaves that had Smith survived, the world might not ever heard of Haston! He aparently beleaves no two world class climbers are allowed to come from the same region of the world.
In the latter half of this book the author's subtle hero worship for Don Whillans, Britains "Bad Boy" of climbing" comes through.. Mr. Connor is free to "hero worship" whomever he likes, but please don't try to pass it off as "journalism"!
Most american's mentioned in this book take some sort of verbal jab from Connor (for instance, he attempts to give the reader the impression that Layton Kor was a pothead, and Norman Dhyrenfurth wrote "chatty" expedition news letters). But no one, american or otherwise, takes a bigger beating in this volume than John Harlin! According to Connor not only was Harlin no more than a "poser" and media hound, why he could barely climb! The author attempts to portray Harlin as a man who had be drug up easy routes in England by better climbing companions! He writes this about a man who had climbed the north face of the Eiger before any Brit had (and long before any Scot had)!
One wonders if the publisher (let alone the author) considered a fact checker before this book went to publication? The author bills himself as a "climber" but one must marval at his basic lack of mountaineering knowledge. For the basic errors are many!!
Connor twice referrs to the "American West Ridge Expedition 1963"...
The American Mt. Everest Expedition (that's what is was called, AMEE, for short) never even thought of climbing the west ridge of Everest until the walk in. The expedition raised money on the premise that the objects of thier consern would be Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! Not once, until over 40 years later did I ever hear of it descibed as the "American West Ridge Expedition"...
Connor states (twice in this book) The "American West Ridge Expedition" put 4 climbers on top! Umm, no Jeff, read basic mountian history, six men reached the summit, four from the col route and two from the west ridge!!
This author tells the world of the troubles Dougal Haston will have while getting ready for his first everest expedition in 1971.. One of the things he states that Haston must get ready for is "capricious post-monsoon weather conditions", I guess forgetting that the 1971 International Everest Expedition was in the spring??
This author tells the world that in 1970 on Nanga Parbat, Reinhold and Gunther Messner "reached the summit via the Diamir face". Umm, no again Jeff! As the world knows, the 1970 expedition led by Karl Herligkoffer that the Messner brothers were part of, climbed the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat. Only after reaching the summit did the Messner brothers decide to DESCEND the Diamir face. The Diamir face itself had been climbed in 1962 by a previous Herligkoffer expedition.
Connor states of Peter Boardman: "Boardman died on the North-East Ridge of Everest in 1978". Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker disappeared on the Northeast ridge of Everest during a Chris Bonington led expedition in 1982.
I could go on...
If the author was this casual about checking these basic facts, than how accurate are all these new "inside" details he presents as fact??
As I say to start with, this is a very poorly written book, although the subject matter could have been fascinating. I do not reccomend this book at all.

Mick Jagger of the Climbing World.......2002-05-28

Dougal was one of the lucky lads born at just the right time to come of age in the `60's when his special type of charisma was coin of the realm. He was handsome in an unusual Jean Belmondo sort of way, arrogant, enigmatic, rail thin and intense, spoke little and modestly, dressed like a peacock, and had the gleam of destiny in his eye.

He grew up poor and rowdy in Currie, Scotland, was a moderate student, and discovered climbing when a young teen. From that time on, everybody and everything took a back seat to his ever-widening aspirations. He was flashy, determined and as ascetic on the hills as he was sybaritic on the ground. He went from the Scottish Hills, to the Alps, to Everest in ever-increasing adulation, not the least of it from the ladies. He was killed in an avalanche in Switzerland at age 36. The stylish scarf he wore choked him.

The book gets off to an extremely slow start. The first third is devoted to Dougal's early days in Scotland. Intricate details are given of every hill he ever climbed as a lad. Many of these elaborate facets could only be of interest to another Scottish climber, as there is no map shown, and the reader is not given a sense of the progression of difficulties. Also, Mr. Connor is strangely ambivalent about his youthful subject. The author is at great pains to remind us that a contemporary of Haston's, Robin Smith who was killed in a fall in 1962, was Dougal's superior in every way---on the mountains, socially and academically. At times, I wondered why the author had not chosen Mr. Smith as his subject. When Dougal gets to the Alps, the book kicks in and becomes a fascinating read about Haston's expanding skills and extreme climbing right on to the Himalayas. The author focuses on the strong partnerships Haston forged and his hard work as a member of the team. The book is at its best when Haston is allowed to speak for himself via diaries and journals.

Haston, except for his genius on the mountain, was not an admirable man. He had no particular interest in money, but didn't care how he came by it taking advantage of his friends and forgetting favors. He was a wild drunk (for some reason the author backs off of the word "alcoholic," which Haston certainly was). He was at fault in a fatal auto accident where he ran away from the scene leaving the dead and injured on the road. He left friends and family behind when they no longer did him any good. In his own lights, he lived as he had to; his whole being was focused on the next climb, what and wherever it was.

Enjoyable and thought provoking with enough technical material to satisfy the climbers and enough human interest for the general reader.

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Dougal Haston: The Philosophy of Risk

Manufacturer: Canongate Books Ltd
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback
ASIN: B000GLS2YY

Book Description

In the past 65 years, the United States Supreme Court has outlined, through its decisions, its conceptions of the roles and responsibilities of the U.S. media. Analyzing every Supreme Court media case from 1931 to 1996, this book explores the changes in how the Court has conceived of the media's freedom. Hindman focuses on the educational and political functions of the media, the ethical principles of truth telling, and the conflict between collectivist and individualist interpretations of the First Amendment. The author challenges accepted views in the field, arguing that despite the justices' rhetoric, the Court has treated media freedom as a social goal rather than a right.

Image Ethics: The Moral Rights of Subjects in Photographs, Film, and Television (Communication & Society)

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Image Ethics: The Moral Rights of Subjects in Photographs, Film, and Television (Communication & Society)

Manufacturer: Oxford University Press, USA
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0195054334

Book Description

This pathbreaking collection of thirteen original essays examines the moral rights of the subjects of documentary film, photography, and television. Image makers--photographers and filmmakers--are coming under increasing criticism for presenting images of people that are considered intrusive
and embarrassing to the subject. Portraying subjects in a "false light," appropriating their images, and failing to secure "informed consent" are all practices that intensify the debate between advocates of the right to privacy and the public's right to know. Discussing these questions from a
variety of perspectives, the authors here explore such issues as informed consent, the "right" of individuals and minority groups to be represented fairly and accurately, the right of individuals to profit from their own image, and the peculiar moral obligations of minorities who image themselves
and the producers of autobiographical documentaries. The book includes a series of provocative case studies on: the documentaries of Frederick Wiseman, particularly Titicut Follies; British documentaries of the 1930s; the libel suit of General Westmoreland against CBS News; the film Witness and
its portrayal of the Amish; the film The Gods Must be Crazy and its portrayal of the San people of southern Africa; and the treatment of Arabs and gays on television. The first book to explore the moral issues peculiar to the production of visual images, Image Ethics will interest a wide range of
general readers and students and specialists in film and television production, photography, communications, media, and the social sciences.

The Watchful Eye: American Justice in the Age of the Television Trial

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The Watchful Eye: American Justice in the Age of the Television Trial
Paul Thaler
Manufacturer: Praeger Publishers
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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Book Description

According to Thaler, the presence of cameras in the courtroom is a pervasive technology that can affect public perceptions of the judicial process, change the behavior and attitudes of trial participants, and ultimately transform the sober process of justice into a media event designed for maximum public exposure. The author has interviewed more than 50 people--prominent journalists, academics, and members of the legal system--and brought together their observations in a fascinating historical and psychological profile of the televised courtroom. Thaler provides a historical overview and theoretical perspective, and discusses the new cable courtroom network and the current and continuing camera debate in New York City. He makes reference to the recent celebrated cases involving Amy Fisher, William Kennedy Smith, and Rodney King, then turns to an in-depth case study of the Joel Steinberg murder trial, including insights from the presiding judge, trial attorneys, witnesses, jurors, and the defendant himself, as well as journalists who covered the trial. The author concludes that the process of justice is slowly being turned into an entertainment vehicle, not unlike the show trials of bygone eras.

Holding the Media Accountable: Citizens, Ethics, and the Law

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Holding the Media Accountable: Citizens, Ethics, and the Law

Manufacturer: Indiana Univ Pr
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Binding: Hardcover

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Last Rights: Revisiting *Four Theories of the Press* (History of Communication)

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Mass Communication Law and Ethics (Lea's Communication Series)

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Mass Communication Law and Ethics (Lea's Communication Series)
Roy L. Moore
Manufacturer: Lawrence Erlbaum
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0805825991

Book Description

The second edition of i Mass Communication Law and Ethics /i features a complete updating of all major U.S. Supreme Court cases and lower court decisions through 1998; more discussion throughout the book on media ethics and the role of ethics in media law; and an updated appendix that now features a copy of the U.S. Constitution, new sample copyright and trademark registration forms, and the current versions of major media codes of ethics, including the new code of the Society of Professional Journalists. br br Extensively updated and expanded chapters provide: br *more detailed explanations of the legal system, the judicial process, and the relationship between media ethics and media law; br *new cases in this developing area of the law that has attracted renewed attention from the U.S. Supreme Court; br *the new Telecommunications Act and the Communications Decency Act; br *a discussion of telecommunications and the Internet; br *new developments in access to courts, records, and meetings such as recent court decisions and statutory changes; and br *more information about trademark and trade secret laws and recent changes in copyright laws, as well as major court decisions on intellectual property. br br The book has also been updated to include new developments in obscenity and indecency laws, such as the Communications Decency Act, and the U.S. Supreme Court decision in Reno vs. ACLU. In addition, the instructor's manual includes a listing of electronic sources of information about media law, sample exams, and a sample syllabus. br

Mass Communication Law and Ethics: A Casebook (Lea's Communication)

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Mass Communication Law and Ethics: A Casebook (Lea's Communication)
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ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

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The Mass Media Declaration of UNESCO: (Communication and Information Science)

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The Mass Media Declaration of UNESCO: (Communication and Information Science)
Kaarle Nordenstreng
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This book exmines the 1978 Mass Media Declaration of UNESCO, not only for its historical and diplomatic implications, but for its importance to the basic professional training and lifelong education of journalists. It is the first comprehensive book to appear on this subject. Making a landmark contribution to a heretofore vague and poorly articulated field, this volume inaugurates this document as a part of journalism training and brings it to the permanent agenda of professional debate. The book also serves as invaluable background material for "reading" the official UNESCO documents.

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Medios De Comunicacion Y Autocontrol/Mass Media and Self-control: . Entre La Etica Y El Derecho/ Between the Ethics and Law
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Speech, Media and Ethics: The Limits of Free Expression: Critical Studies on Freedom of Expression, Freedom of the Press and the Public's Right to Know

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A laymans perspective
simply a must for media scholars and professionals

Speech, Media and Ethics: The Limits of Free Expression: Critical Studies on Freedom of Expression, Freedom of the Press and the Public's Right to Know
Raphael Cohen-Almagor
Manufacturer: Palgrave Macmillan
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0312236077

Book Description

Speech, Media, and Ethics: The Limits of Free Expression is an interdisciplinary work that employs ethics, liberal philosophy, and legal and media studies to outline boundaries to freedom of expression and freedom of the press conducive to protecting basic human and civic rights. Moral principles are applied to analyze practical questions that deal with free expression and its limits.

Customer Reviews:

A laymans perspective.......2001-07-20

Speech, Media and Ethics - the limits of free expression by Raphael Cohen-Almagor

Cohen-Almagor's analysis of the paradoxes and dilemmas surrounding freedom of speech in a democratic system first came to my attention in his The Boundaries of Tolerance: The Struggle Against Kahanism in Israel. To this layman, interested in gaining a better grasp of democracy, it was an eye-opener in its portrayal of the subtle constraints on the rights held to be sacrosanct. The present volume takes the theme further - focusing on the intrinsic tensions between the allowing the media as much freedom as possible, and the need for self-defence mechanisms to protect democracy. Its discussion of the Harm Principle (constraints which apply to threats of immediate violence) and the Offence Principle (which places psychological offence on a par, morally, with physical harm) leads to a provocative examination of the limits that may be imposed on free expression. A case in point: the Skokie affair, in which the Illinois Supreme Court decision is argued to be flawed.

Another central issue is the potential conflict between (what is perceived as) good journalism, on the one hand, and objective reporting, on the other - a particularly thought-provoking theme; thus, for example, the author advances the view that morally neutral coverage of hate rhetoric, racism, genocide and terrorism may be both false and untenable. The moral implications extend to other contexts as well; e.g. in arguing for extreme caution in media coverage of suicide, in general, and in the coverage of teen suicides and celebrity suicides (most likely to be imitated), in particular.

All in all, ethical constraints on the right to know are a recurrent theme in this volume, and one that cannot fail to engage the reader interested in ongoing ethical controversies related to the media. (Suffice it to mention the debate - pursued ad nauseam - surrounding coverage of Princess Diana, both in life and in death). While the code of ethics which obtains for the media may be fairly clear in theory, enforcement is no simple matter, nor are the press councils as powerful as one may think, especially when they are in fact run by the media themselves. Cohen-Almagor's recommendations - some of them very concrete ones - for better and more ethical media are as vital as they are (hopefully) practicable.

The Appendix - describing a telephone poll (in Israel) designed to evaluate public perceptions of media coverage - is revealing: one very troubling statistic was the relatively high proportion of those who supported imposing restrictions on freedom of speech and press. The potential threat of such a mindset to the workings of democracy should not be overlooked.

Clearly, ethical considerations must be an ever-present concern of the media - the publishers, concessionaires, editors and reporters - though, as the author reiterates, regulation and constraints should, wherever possible, be self-imposed, rather than the products of legislation. Speech, Media and Ethics is an immensely readable analysis of these consideration. It should be on the Recommended Reading lists of students (law, journalism, philosophy etc.), journalists - and of anyone interested in the subtle workings of the democratic system.

simply a must for media scholars and professionals.......2001-03-20

+AH4-The principle of free communication is probably the most complex and controversial of all constitutional guarantees. Traditionally it has been spoken of as the free speech principle. But that expression conceals the fact that the principle it enunciates is both narrower and wider than its language suggests. The principle does not protect many things that are in a literal sense speech. On the other hand it does protect many things that are not speech. Defamation, obscenity, and fraud may be+AH4-+AH4- perpetrated through speech acts but are unprotected. Marching, picketing, and voting are non-speech activities but the free speech guarantee may in certain circumstances protect them.

In 1994, in The Boundaries of Liberty and Tolerance, Raphael Cohen-Almagor published a pioneering study of the challenge to liberal principles of toleration posed by extremist political parties in Israel. In Speech, Media, and Ethics: The Limits of Free Expression, the examination of the limits of tolerance is+AH4-+AH4- extended to embrace the problem of maintaining a free press in the face of challenges from forces that if left unrestrained would destroy the institutions of a free society. This is the classic dilemma of liberal toleration. To the extent that liberal theory can distinguish between what John Stuart Mill - the Founding Father of free speech theory - called discussion and expressive activities that go beyond discussion the classic question whether we should tolerate the intolerant has a simple+AH4-+AH4- answer. The toleration of discussion or advocacy extends to the advocacy of violent or extremist policies since ex hypothesi it extends to the advocacy or discussion (if that is what it is) of anything. But the application of that principle and the analysis of what it is that carries communicative activities beyond advocacy are complex. It is also best explored, as here, in relation to concrete instances and experiences.

Of all the dilemmas in the operation of free governments, the dilemma+AH4-+AH4- of free discussion and the delimitation of press freedom are the most intractable. In these essays Raphael Cohen-Almagor tackles the dilemma at the points where its complexities are most apparent. Political theorists, politicians, and philosophical journalists (if such there be) will have good reason to ponder what he has to say.+AH4-

Book Description

This digital document is an article from CMA Management, published by Society of Management Accountants of Canada on July 1, 2001. The length of the article is 729 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.

Citation Details
Title: On the Move.(Review)
Author: Mark Borkowski
Publication: CMA Management (Magazine/Journal)
Date: July 1, 2001
Publisher: Society of Management Accountants of Canada
Volume: 75 Issue: 5 Page: 46

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