Average customer rating:
- Excellent resource on treating and preventing injuries...
- Johnson is "magic"!
- Review of, "Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff"
- So far, so good
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Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff
Jim Johnson
Manufacturer: Dog Ear Publishing, LLC
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback
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ASIN: 1598582062 |
Book Description
Based entirely on research from peer-reviewed journals and randomized controlled trials,
Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff is a complete program to prevent and rehabilitate rotator cuff injuries for athletes and non-athletes alike. In less than 100 pages, readers will learn precisely how the rotator cuff works, what can go wrong with it, and then are guided step-by-step through an evidence-based program that takes just minutes a week to complete. Drawing from the latest rotator cuff research,
Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff is especially useful for those who have been diagnosed with either a partial or full-thickness rotator cuff tear, experience shoulder pain, do upper body weight lifting, play a sport or have a job that involves repeated arm motions above shoulder level, have been diagnosed with "impingement syndrome," or for anyone simply wanting a healthy and properly functioning rotator cuff.
Customer Reviews:
Excellent resource on treating and preventing injuries..........2007-09-06
This is a great book that concisely explains the anatomy and physiology of the rotator cuff including the bones, muscles, biomechanics, etc. in just enough detail for the average person to understand. It also describes how to distinguish between different types of injuries, how to approach rehabilitating them and collects a lot of rotator cuff injuries in one small volume. While the book is rather expensive for its size, it packs a lot of well-explained information into a small space.
I'm an ex-physiology teaching fellow and scientist. I thought this book was great and turned something that is often difficult to explain into something anyone who can read can understand. The diagrams are good and the book contains no unnecessary detail.
I also agree with other reviewers that while Jim Johnson isn't an expert on rotator cuffs, his book is thoroughly researched and he does have a PT credential and has undoubtedly had 15 years of clinical experience in a teaching hospital environment. This suggests he has a very good nuts and bolts understanding and hands-on experience.
Johnson is "magic"!.......2007-07-09
This is the second book of Jim Johnson's that I have bought. The first one fixed my back pains with a simple exercise to strengthen the Multifidus muscles.
The exercises in this book has significantly reduced pain and increased mobility in my left shoulder, allowing me to sleep through the night and lift my arm over my shoulder.
Review of, "Treat Your Own Rotator Cuff".......2007-06-13
I ordered this book for my brother-in-law who has experienced shoulder pain and not being able to lift his arm higher than shoulder level due to a rotator cuff injury he received in the past. I recommended it to him because of the wonderful results I got using the information in this book to treat my own right shoulder pain.
Having previously read, Jim Johnson's, The Sixty-Second Motivator, and finding it very helpful, I can tell you that I certainly had the motivation to try and stick with an exercise that would relieve my painful and restricting condition. And it sounded to me like my brother-in-law was in the same boat.
I used the Sidelying External Rotation exercise on page 55 of the rotator cuff book and got great results. The first time I tried it I could only manage to raise a 20 ounce can of pineapple about half way up less than ten times. I found the detailed instruction, precautions and notes particularly helpful and feel that carefully following them was why I experienced the gradual recovery. My wife sat beside me making sure I did the exercise slowly and exactly as the book states. After about four weeks I actually worked up to fully raising the can of pineapple 20 times. Later on I increased the weight little by little and began to feel good enough to resume some of the more physically demanding activities on our small farm.
Last week I was actually able to assist with harvesting our hay and didn't suffer during or afterward from any of the shoulder pain or stiffness that I had previously experienced many times. Yes, I was careful about what I did and how I worked, but for me to even attempt to try stacking a 60 pound bale of hay was completely out of the question a few months ago. I went from shoulder pain that caused me sleepless nites and not being able to lift my right arm any higher than shoulder level, to what I consider a darned good day's work.
This book is a real bargain and indeed I consider it invaluable when I think about how it helped me. And as you can see, I heartily recommend it.
So far, so good.......2007-05-11
Just as the book promised, I had a eureka! moment the other day. I bought this book because I have been having unidentified rotator cuff problems for years (I was a baseball and now am an avid softball player). Because everyone talks about rotator cuff tears, I assumed that's what my problem was. After reading Johnson's book, I was surprised and pleased to discover that my problem was most likely simply an impingement, and that no matter what your unspecified problem it is, it is likely to improve from his exercises (he cites the studies that prove this claim). Prior to starting his exercises, it was painful to soap up in the shower, sleep or do anything where I had to reach my back. Now, after just a month of the stretches and strengthening exercises I realized all of a sudden the other day (eureka!) that I have no pain in my shoulders! My range of motion is not where it should be yet in one shoulder, but it's improving. I still have a ways to go, but I'm encouraged by my progress so far.
Johnson's book is written to help people with all severity of rotator cuff problems. Anywhere from being unable to lift an arm overhead to near full utility of the joint. He also gives you measurements by which you can judge your flexibility, which is also nice to help you figure out what "normal" is.
I suppose the question still remains: why don't you just go to a doctor, idiot? I suppose the real answer is the inconvenience of going, the cost, and primarily, just that I'm a DIYer type my nature, and like to fix things on my own when I can.
The only reason I didn't go to 5 stars was because I got the impression from the book that Johnson is really just a guy (in the field) who reviewed some studies and came up with a program. Now, that's a great way to go about things, but I would not call him an *expert* on rotator cuffs. On the plus side, that does make him very easy to understand, as opposed to some of the surgeons out there who have written on the subject.
Book Description
One of the most extraordinary survival stories ever told -- Aron Ralston's searing account of his six days trapped in one of the most remote spots in America, and how one inspired act of bravery brought him home.
It started out as a simple hike in the Utah canyonlands on a warm Saturday afternoon. For Aron Ralston, a twenty-seven-year-old mountaineer and outdoorsman, a walk into the remote Blue John Canyon was a chance to get a break from a winter of solo climbing Colorado's highest and toughest peaks. He'd earned this weekend vacation, and though he met two charming women along the way, by early afternoon he finally found himself in his element: alone, with just the beauty of the natural world all around him.
It was 2:41 P.M. Eight miles from his truck, in a deep and narrow slot canyon, Aron was climbing down off a wedged boulder when the rock suddenly, and terrifyingly, came loose. Before he could get out of the way, the falling stone pinned his right hand and wrist against the canyon wall.
And so began six days of hell for Aron Ralston. With scant water and little food, no jacket for the painfully cold nights, and the terrible knowledge that he'd told no one where he was headed, he found himself facing a lingering death -- trapped by an 800-pound boulder 100 feet down in the bottom of a canyon. As he eliminated his escape options one by one through the days, Aron faced the full horror of his predicament: By the time any possible search and rescue effort would begin, he'd most probably have died of dehydration, if a flash flood didn't drown him before that.
What does one do in the face of almost certain death? Using the video camera from his pack, Aron began recording his grateful good-byes to his family and friends all over the country, thinking back over a life filled with adventure, and documenting a last will and testament with the hope that someone would find it. (For their part, his family and friends had instigated a major search for Aron, the amazing details of which are also documented here for the first time.) The knowledge of their love kept Aron Ralston alive, until a divine inspiration on Thursday morning solved the riddle of the boulder. Aron then committed the most extreme act imaginable to save himself.
Between a Rock and a Hard Place -- a brilliantly written, funny, honest, inspiring, and downright astonishing report from the line where death meets life -- will surely take its place in the annals of classic adventure stories.
Download Description
"One of the most extraordinary survival stories ever told -- Aron Ralston's searing account of his six days trapped in one of the most remote spots in America, and how one inspired act of bravery brought him home. It started out as a simple hike in the Utah canyonlands on a warm Saturday afternoon. For Aron Ralston, a twenty-seven-year-old mountaineer and outdoorsman, a walk into the remote Blue John Canyon was a chance to get a break from a winter of solo climbing Colorado's highest and toughest peaks. He'd earned this weekend vacation, and though he met two charming women along the way, by early afternoon he finally found himself in his element: alone, with just the beauty of the natural world all around him. It was 2:41 P.M. Eight miles from his truck, in a deep and narrow slot canyon, Aron was climbing down off a wedged boulder when the rock suddenly, and terrifyingly, came loose. Before he could get out of the way, the falling stone pinned his right hand and wrist against the canyon wall. And so began six days of hell for Aron Ralston. With scant water and little food, no jacket for the painfully cold nights, and the terrible knowledge that he'd told no one where he was headed, he found himself facing a lingering death -- trapped by an 800-pound boulder 100 feet down in the bottom of a canyon. As he eliminated his escape options one by one through the days, Aron faced the full horror of his predicament: By the time any possible search and rescue effort would begin, he'd most probably have died of dehydration, if a flash flood didn't drown him before that. What does one do in the face of almost certain death? Using the video camera from his pack, Aron began recording his grateful good-byes to his family and friends all over the country, thinking back over a life filled with adventure, and documenting a last will and testament with the hope that someone would find it. (For their part, his family and friends had instigated a major search for Aron, the amazing details of which are also documented here for the first time.) The knowledge of their love kept Aron Ralston alive, until a divine inspiration on Thursday morning solved the riddle of the boulder. Aron then committed the most extreme act imaginable to save himself. Between a Rock and a Hard Place -- a brilliantly written, funny, honest, inspiring, and downright astonishing report from the line where death meets life -- will surely take its place in the annals of classic adventure stories. "
Customer Reviews:
Great Adventure.......2007-10-12
I really like this book, and the story is amazing, moving, and inspiring. I think some people are "reviewing" him as a person, instead of the book. I do think he was a bit irresponsible, but he was also young and an adventurer, without much fear. That's the way he lived. He admits most of that. The story is still great, and i think well-written. I did get bored with some stories of the past adventures, but i think if you're into reading about such things, you will like it. I read over those parts a little quicker, but on a whole, i loved the book, and thought he did a great job, and made some good, moving points.
Digressions Reveal Character.......2007-10-10
While many reviewers are frustrated with the many digressions throughout Aron's work, his discourse on past adventures and history reveal an unsettling mass of information about Aron's character: Aron lacks remorse and takes pride in his recklessness as an adventurer, without respect and humility for the wilderness around him.
Adventurers should have a healthy level of respect for mother nature. The situations in which we willingly place ourselves can be termed by outsiders to be reckless; however, for most adventurers, that is not the case. We go into the situations knowing full well the risks and uncertainty and make prudent decisions.
Aron exhibits none of these characteristics and as he reflects on his past adventures through the book, he notes how this disposition greatly increases the risk to him and those around him. In one story in particular, Aron points out that his disregard for volatile situations nearly cost the lives of those with him and subsequently cost him the relationships he had with them. And most dissappointing about it is that he shows no remorse for that choice.
The book was interesting to read, but I can't tell you how many times it raised my blood pressure. What Aron did by cutting off his arm was astonishing; more astonishing is the fact that it doesn't seem to have matured him in the least.
I have mixed feelings on this one.......2007-09-15
Aron is either very brave or irresponsible, possibly a little of both.
I give this man points for bravery and his thirst for the outdoors, but I found myself shaking my head and rolling my eyes about the things he did.
The book starts out with him stuck in the rock quite early in the book, but after the 2nd or 3rd chapter, he alternates every other chapter to his Present Stuck situation and his stories of hiking around the great outdoors.
I found myself needing to get to the end of the book so i can read about him hacking his right arm off, so the book had me wanting to keep reading. For that it was a good read.
Lessons of Aron: Don't "SHOO" off a bear, don't bring your friends skiing into a Potential Avalanche zone, and never go hiking with out telling friends and family where you are or leaving a map or note at your bike or truck so they can find you.
Oh, I almost forgot, you can drink your own urine for up to 3 days in the wild apparently...haha
I recommend this book, but barely.
Somewhat Boring .......2007-08-31
Throughout the writing, Aron Ralston constantly strays from the actual plot. The book has constant flashbacks to his past adventures become monotonous after the first few chapters. The main storyline of is entrapment was very interesting. The fact that he was able to survive for so long in the Moab desert is nothing short of a miracle. All in all I enjoyed the book, despite some boring chapters that strayed from the point.
Wasted Opportunity.......2007-07-12
The story seems compelling: an unfortunate hiker has his arm pinned by a boulder and must cut off his own arm to rescue himself. It is a terrible thing for anybody to lose part of a limb (indeed, ask any of the many Iraq War casualties), and we like to look for some positive outcome from such a loss. I read this book because I was curious what changes such an experience would cause in one's approach to life. I was left disappointed and angry.
Aron Ralston survived what should have been a life-changing experience, yet came away from it the same arrogant, self-centered boy as before. The reader hopes and prays that the tiresome egotism of the early chapters is simply a literary device, designed to set the stage for Ralston's transformation. Instead, the egotism remains the constant in his life, both before and after his accident.
Although Ralston claims to have had a revelation while pinned behind a boulder -- finally understanding it is not what you have done, but how you have lived -- this revelation is discarded the moment he survives. Once healthy again, Ralston returns to stupid, dangerous activities (e.g., solo winter ascents) with no consideration for those he loves. He has learned nothing. He was given the opportunity to make a major change in his life. He ignored the chance to mature and act responsibly, and returned to reckless behavior that only puts his family and friends at risk of heart ache.
Ralston begins his story by documenting his many stupid mistakes that almost cost him his life. He makes winter ascents of Colorado peaks without spare outer gloves. He pushes himself to the point of hallucinating, putting himself and his partner at risk. He goes solo canyoneering and mountain biking without a first aid kit. He ignores advice of a park ranger and goes hiking in inappropropriate snow conditions, and almost is attacked by a bear. He puts himself and friends at risk skiing in areas with a high risk of avalanche. Despite his supposed training in search and rescue, his ignores the first rule (always let somebody know where you are going and when you should be back). Yet, Ralston seems baffled when his mother doesn't want to hear the details of his latest in a long series of scrapes with death. Perhaps she cares about him. Perhaps she wonders why he insists on always doing things the dangerous way. Perhaps she wonders how he can do these things to her.
There are many ways to immerse one self in the great outdoors, and there are many ways to test one self. Many a young person has thought that placing themselves in life-threatening situations is the ultimate test. Luckily, most of us outgrow this stage. We start to recognize the value of life. We start to recognize the devastation that our deaths would have on our family and friends. We mature.
There are many, many skilled mountaineers in Colorado. Many have the requisite skills to complete solo winter ascents, but most forego the activity because it is stupid. There are too many variables, and the odds of dying are too high. Ralston fancies himself a Super Man because he is dumb enough to go on winter solo ascents. Despite repeated narrow escapes, it never occurs to Ralston that he is being cavalier with his life, the lives of his friends, and the emotions of his family and friends.
The baffling thing about Ralston's history is that he never matured. He had plenty of occasions for reflection, and he had friends endeavoring to change his perspective. Yet, he continued on his own little self-centered journey. He wanted to be bigger than life, no matter what the cost.
Indeed, the bizarre thoroughness of his photo-documentation of his struggle attests to his dreams of grandeur. If he lived, he was going to be famous. If he died, he was going to be a legend. Ralston would have us believe that he was fighting for his life on the hike out, yet he never even considered leaving behind his video camera and digital still camera.
At some point in Ralston's effort to show that he was the prime mover in the many good times with his friends, he recounts making fun of 1980s music. I found this ironic, in that Ralston is the embodiment of the 1980s Me Generation. It is all about Aron, without any consideration for anybody else.
Do not buy this book. To do so is to encourage a reprehensible approach to life. To do so is to reward a selfish little child. To do so is to buy into a false hero. To do so is to support the extreme of self-centeredness. To do so is to cast a foreseeable event (based on poor preparation and a belief of invincibility) as an unavoidable accident. Do not buy this book.
Mr. Ralston was given an opportunity to see the light and to mature, but squandered that chance in exchange for celebrity. If he continues with his solo winter climbing, I fear that he will eventually pay the ultimate price for his contorted self-image and lack of judgment.
Customer Reviews:
Information circa 1992: even the roads have moved!.......2007-07-13
The material in the 2nd edition is from 1992, NOT 2000 as the Amazon page says. We recently moved to Southern California, bought the book on Amazon, then went to boulder at Hidden Valley Campground. I had trouble getting my bearings... Intersection Rock was in the wrong place... the roads have all moved in that area since the book was written. I met a local in the parking lot and asked him what was up. When he saw the book in my hand he asked if I bought it at the ranger station, then complained that it was still on their shelves given how out of date it is.
I don't know if the publication date is a typo (maybe 2000 was the last reprint date?) but I'm not impressed with the book. Combine the lacking route descriptions (see other reviews) with 15 years since publication and you've got a pretty weak guide book. Spend your $33 on a better, more current book.
Great overall climbing guide.......2005-08-05
If you don't know where in JTree you would like to climb or if you plan on doing a little bit of all kinds of climbing, this is the book to have. It provides an overview for the whole area with great maps and photographs to easily locate all rocks (and there is a lot of them so the book is thick). Some of the maps and info are out of date and need to be replaced (the Hidden Valley campground/Intersection Rock map and information about showers). I also found myself constantly writing on the map page references for the different rocks. It may also be nice to include a guide on all major toprope, bouldering, and sport climbing sections, although these exist on the web. Overall, I had an amazing trip and knew where to go every day, I just wish I had more than 5 days to climb there. Ooooh, also the book doesn't tell you that you will have no finger tips left or that the ratings are really hard and you shouldn't use them :-) A 5.10c in JTree is apparently not a 5.10c anywhere else, but this is a one of a kind place!
This is the book........2005-03-11
There are others out there, but Vogel's Rock Climbing Joshua Tree is the definitive overall guide that both new and experienced climbers rely upon. However, for more detailed information on routes in specific areas of Joshua Tree (Lost Horse, Indian Cove, Hidden Valley, etc.), don't leave home without Alan Bartlett's excellent guides.
That said, Rock Climbing JT is and will always be a work in progress, as is any climbing guide, and should be viewed as such. Bolts on old routes can become unreliable, new routes are always being established and the ratings themselves are highly subjective. Some 5.8 routes have felt like 5.10, while another 5.8 can seem like a walk-up. Paradoxically, it is the trusted guide that can't always be trusted.
Each route has a star rating, a qualitative scoring process which is again highly subjective. Some routes have descriptions, some don't. Not all routes have accompanying photographs and in this second edition, there is still an annoyingly large number of misspellings and incorrect cross references. But as I said before, this book is a work in progress. It takes years and years of climbing prowess and research to gather information for a guide of this magnitude and despite the highly opinionated nature of this and all climbing guides, it is still an essential piece of climbing gear no Josh climber should do without.
Missing details, but great guide.......2004-01-22
This is a very comprehensive guide to Joshua Tree for climbers. It is the book that we always take with us as the defintive reference. Generally, the information is accurate and the maps detailing which rock is which in various formations is quite good.
However, there are several notable drawbacks to the book. First - the routes often have no description of them or any guidance as to the trad gear needed for a given route. Second, many of the routes for some areas do not appear in the pictures making route finding without a good desription, difficult. Third, descent information is often not found or has to be interpreted.
It may sound like there are major faults with the book, but in reality it is a good book that is very useful. Just don't expect it to tell you everything you need to know about a given crag.
The best guidebook to Joshua Tree.......2003-07-08
If you're looking for the comprehensive catalog to Joshua Tree climbs, look no further. Author Randy Vogel has undertaken a huge task in compiling over 4,000 routes for the Park. The downside is that the route descriptions are very, often too, concise. For example, "Walk on the Wild Side", one of the best moderate climbs in Joshua Tree has the following "description":
"WALK ON THE WILD SIDE 5.7+ ****".
For a first-timer, this description lacks the necessary detail to be complete. Is this a bolted or trad route? How many pitches? Do I repell off or walk off? Are there bolted anchors? What gear should I bring?
I've found that using this book in conjunction with climbingjtree.com (which includes color pictures and user-submitted commentary along with detailed route descriptions and gear suggestions) to be the best of both worlds!
Book Description
New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series: everything climbers need to know about setting climbing anchors, in one comprehensive guide
· Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
· Learning exercises reinforce key skills
· Proper gear placement shown in more than 300 photos
Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors.
This new entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering—all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.
Customer Reviews:
Comprehensive and current!.......2007-06-10
Very current and well organized book! Craig Luebben has obviously absorbed the new anchoring concepts that have cropped up recently and has helped me understand the advantages and disadvantages to each new method. A better book in my opinion than John Long's new anchor book. Nicely illustrated and un-biased, this is the book I am recommending to my immediate/advanced clients. -Dave Lottmann, EMS Climbing Guide
THE Anchor Building Book!.......2007-05-14
I've read all the anchor building books and so far, I have found this one to be the best one. Easy to understand, backed up by testing, lots of pictures (a picture speaks a thousand words!), a well-written guide!
I highly recommend this to all climbers out there!
Great.......2007-05-12
Craig breaks anchors down into clear concepts, some of which John Long made blurry. The only thing I would have liked were color pictures...simply because some of the anchors were hard to see in B and W.
Best Anchors Book on the Market!!!!.......2007-02-12
Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, "a picture is worth a thousand words." And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below:
- Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging.
- He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces.
- There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations.
- Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings.
- Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations.
- All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market.
- According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben's experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps - that's pretty cool!
Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.
Excellent Reference.......2007-01-23
Nicely presented information on climbing anchors that was easy to follow. The photographs were well done and provided clarity.
Book Description
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Includes 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique, detailed anatomical illustrations that explain climbing physiology and an 85-minute DVD that shows concepts in action.
Customer Reviews:
The book on movement training.......2007-08-31
As its title states, it is THE "Guide to Movement performance". Although it is a comprehensive guide on climbing training, its worth is found on the foundations of climbing technique (movement, positioning, etc ...). The authors formulate the very (few) principles of technique and their training through beautiful and comprehensive images and movies. This systematic approach enables the understanding of any move by reducing them to a combination of the basic principles.
The other parts of the book concentrate on the physical and psychological aspects of climbing. Although its principles are also shown, the practical application of these principles were, in my opinion, vague in comparison to the technique part. These sections are still worth reading, but I think "Training for Climbing" contains a richer and more practical approach to physical and psychological training.
Great help for any climber.......2007-08-12
The exercises recommended in the first few chapters were generally for more novice climbers but still, the information provided was useful and provided me with lots of insight into what i've already been doing.
btw, the book is focused more at your sport climbing performance rather than bouldering.
Have fun reaching new heights.......2007-05-29
The book arrived moments before I left the house for a day of climbing. I skimmed through the book, taking note of some new moves to try. I went on to reach personal bests that day.
Now that I've had a chance to read more, the book is still my favorite book on climbing. Full of thought provoking images and ideas, the "Self Coached Climber" is clearly written and fun to read. The book is so full of terrific info and images, I haven't even looked at the enclosed DVD yet.
One of the nicest features about the images is that they show the climbing moves from several angles rather than just one so there is no need to guess at what you can't see (a problem with many climbing books).
Totally fills the void........2007-03-04
This book does what others only hint at - give you comprehensive tools to get past peaks, develop and strengthen weaknesses, and actually create a plan on how to get there.
No other book (and I've gotten them all) does this. I don't agree with the writer that this book should have included how to deal with injuries - that is more than covered in other books and I didn't miss it in this one.
The training plans and exercises in this book (and I only climb 2 x week, not 4 - due to my advanced age) brought my bouldering grade up one level (solid on-sight) and leading two grade: In less than six weeks!!
Don't skip the technique sections - they are vital even for advanced climbers.
Best climbing book.......2007-02-21
Great book, we bought it and like all training activities from this book, now we have a great training plan, thanks!
Book Description
This is the completely revised and updated edition of Flash Training, the fundamental manual for physical and mental training for rock climbers. Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, the author has created a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury. A necessary book for rock climbers everywhere.
Customer Reviews:
Excelent. .......2007-08-16
It is really the definitive guide for climbing performance. Looks like "how to climb 5.12" with a lot more things. No doubt it is a good guide for who wants to upgrade his/her climb level.
Excellent training book.......2006-02-01
This book delivers what it says, "Training for Climbing". It is not a technique book but very specifically a guide to training most efficiently for climbing. If you want to climber harder, this book provides lots of good advice.
Thank you for this book!.......2005-11-19
I am an intermediate climber and have been searching for a good source of training techniques to better myself and accomplish more advanced climbs. "Training for Climbing" was suggested by the folks that work at my gym, so I ran out and bought it. This book is so full of information, that I'll be devouring it for weeks! Everything I've read so far is very fact based and straight forward. The parts on developing mental skills are especially interesting to me, as concentration is one of my biggest areas to work on.
My trainer at the gym has requested to look over the book and then we will formulate a work out program to get me in top shape for climbing. I can't wait! Thank you to Eric J. Horst for this comprehensive book on Training for Climbing.
Just what I was looking for..........2004-08-28
I've been climbing for a few years and I wanted to begin a more serious, structured training program to help me break through to the higher grades. Training For Climbing is the book I was looking for, given its scientific look at improving technique, strength and the mind. While such a detailed, measured approach to training may not be for everyone, it has great appeal to me as a longtime athlete who engaged in formal training for other sports. Training For Climbing helped me understand the many unique aspects to, well, training for climbing, which I found to be much different than what I had been used to from my previous sports experience. Furthermore, I enjoyed seeing the many research references and footnotes, and more importantly I was pleased by the overall LACK of "do as so-and-so hot-shot climber does" or "train like I train." Training For Climbing helped me diagnose and design the best training program for me, and I sense that the book will remain a key resource for me for many years to come.
Good book (but heed the warnings).......2003-12-31
First off you must know that this is a book for a hardcore athletic climber. If you are a novice or a weekend climber you may want to start with something lighter.
This book treats climbing from a super-athletic perspective - covering exercise, nutrition and climbing techniques. Some of the info was way too heavy on the anatomy and physiology.
Still, this book focuses on improving your physical and (often not mentioned in any other book) mental technique. It breaks down skills into physical strength, mental and technique areas. Even though much of the training was over my head, this helped me focus on mental hindrances that were inhibiting my performance and had tests which illuminated my weaknesses and then helped me to focus on strength building exercises to work on those weaknesses (like forearm burn and elbow pain after climbing hard).
Book Description
New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series: instruction for the beginning to intermediate rock climber by an internationally known guide.
*Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
*Learning exercises reinforce key skills
*Step-by-step technique illustrated in over 150 photos
Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, he emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency--a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock.
With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, Luebben teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them. Topics addressed include: risk management, face climbing, crack climbing, gear, knots, anchors, belaying, toproping, sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch free climbs, rappelling, aid climbing, bouldering, training, and self-rescue.
Customer Reviews:
A Comprehensive Rock Climbing Guide.......2007-04-12
From beginner through intermediate, this guide to rock climbing will not only teach you the basics, but provide you with exercises to help you improve your technique.
Excellent How-to Book for Climbers.......2007-02-09
Buy it, read it, use it! Mastering Basic Skills should be purchased at the same time as one's first pair of rock shoes. This book is as comprehensive as Freedom of the Hills but written for the rock climbing niche. It delivers a full spectrum of skills and knowledge every climber should develop. From placing protection to footwork to knots and anchors to self-rescue techniques, it's in there. The way information is parceled makes the entire book easy to comprehend, and to consult topic by topic. It's illustrated throughout with crisp photos. Receiving the benefit of the author's guide experience is a bonus; he's added advanced tips and exercises, as well as his own insights. This makes the material less dry, more practical and personal.
If you've mastered everything in Mastering Basic Skills, you truly are an advanced climber. Chances are good, though, that plenty of climbers who've been at it for while could learn something from this book, too.
Helpful for All Levels of Experience.......2006-11-06
A professional guide and industry innovator for over 20 years, Craig is an incredible resource for expert instruction. The updated techniques presented in this manual have been great for me, a climber for 8 years. There are beautiful climbing photos and close-up explanatory photos. This book won the National Book Award.
Basic climbing Skills in a clear and accessible format.......2005-01-13
Craig Luebben's new book represents a huge leap forward in climbing skills manuals. Though many excellent skills manuals exist (including Luebben's past works and the vaunted but unweildy Freedom of the Hills which goes beyond rock climbing into aplinism and mountaineering) this manual really sepetrates itself with its patient explanations and particularly with its photo instructions with added graphics for clarity. Many books of this genre have struggled with the clarity involved with diagramming knots and sysytems and Craig obviously went to great lengths to rectify this issue. The book is organized well and is easy to follow. It is nice to have these smaller manuals which focus on a specific discipline in the sport. As a climbing guide and instructor I am frequently asked to suggest learning manuals. This one will now be at the top of the list.
Book Description
The comprehensive guide to anchoring systems for rock climbers.
Customer Reviews:
too complicated to be useful ?.......2007-10-02
I was a little disappointed about John Long new anchor book. I felt the book lost touch with the reality that climbing safe often means climbing fast, especially in the mountains and on long routes. . While the new tests reported on belay anchors are interesting, they seem to miss statistical validity and the conditions used to carry out the tests seem very extreme and seldom occur in real climbing. What the book does not say is how many accidents have occurred in the real climbing world because of the type of failures that were observed in the testing lab. If that is a significant number, I am willing to change the way I rig my anchors, otherwise it is probably better if I stick to my older simpler method. The solutions proposed to make better (more equalized) anchors are so complicated that it is difficult to imagine how to rig them properly after you climbed 20 pitches with a power bar for lunch. Maybe the information disclosed in the book is useful in specific cases, when all your pieces are awful. I am not an expert, but I just wonder if trying to make belay anchors so complicated at all the time, even when your pieces are great, may cause more accidents due to mistakes and more epics due to wasted time. I would appreciate an expert opinion on this matter. Thanks.
Concise, informative, and well researched.......2007-06-13
This is a well written and well researched book. The most significant aspect for me are the new tests on various anchors presented in the book. As a novice outdoor climber, I was most interested in rigging good top-rope anchors and was quite surpised to learn about the faults of the cordelette. Fortunately he introduces a better alternative called the equalette. He also dispels some myths about the sliding X and the fear many have of potential shock loading. The chapter where he describes the tests of various anchor setups is quite eye opening. It really begs for additional tests to be performed and has me thinking about what other false assumptions exist in this sport. A good reference and essential reading for any outdoor climber.
Building Solid Climbing Anchors.......2007-04-12
This newly updated reference guide will teach you how to build safe and secure anchors while climbing. These techniques have been scientifically tested.
The last word on climbing anchors.......2007-03-31
Climbing Anchors (2nd Edition) by John Long is a newly updated guide and reference to building safe and solid climbing anchors. It combines the best content from "Climbing Anchors" and "More Climbing Anchors" published in 1993 and 1996 respectively.
Here in one comprehensive volume is all the necessary instruction to help climbers place pro, tie critical knots, and construct SRENE anchors. Introduced in this volume is the "self-equalizing" but "limited extension" Equalette anchor system. This technique is an important one to have in a climber's anchor-builing arsenal.
Rocked my world.......2007-01-09
John Long has done the climbing community a great service with the publication of his updated climbing anchor book. His previous works helped create a defacto standard for anchor construction, but suffered from a lack of objective data to support its assertions.
In this new book Long has worked with others to scientifically test the anchoring technique he popularized with his last book, the cordelette. Through this testing he discovered that the cordelette is seriously flawed as a technique for equalizing anchors and puts forth the alternative of the "equalette", a technique that he has worked with others to test extensively in the lab and the the field.
I strongly recommend this book to any climber. As a climber with well over a decade of experience it challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes.
George Marsden
Los Alamos, NM
Book Description
This book is for climbers of all ages, abilities , and interests who wish to improve their performance. It is for weekend warriors who enjoy 5.6s yet desire to lead 5.10s, and for mountaineers interested in moving faster at altitude. It is for ice climbers who want to move more efficiently over frozen terrain and big wall climbers who want to increase their stamina.
The standard concept of training for climbing has long been, "just climb!" While that may suffice for a few gifted individuals, this philosophy has also resulted in countless climbers reaching performance plateaus and suffering recurring injuries. Even after the benefits of training began to be recognized, many of the regimens developed by climbers were physiologically unsound; some were downright dangerous. Climbing: Training for Peak Performance carefully details the foundation and fundamentals of nutrition for mind and body, flexibility training, aerobic, and strength conditioning, and how to put it all together to help you perform better.
Customer Reviews:
Worth the money.......2007-05-14
I was looking to improve my rock climbing abilities to prepare for the spring. This book is definiately informative with a clear and concise overview of what works and what is fad.
Good Information, But Not Great.......2006-05-06
I initially purchased this book without hesitation upon recognizing Clyde Soles' name and recalling his excellent work as the gear editor for "Rock and Ice." And while he has done an excellent job of amassing a wide variety of information and adjusting it to a climbers needs, none of the material presented is really that original or profound. The bottom line of this books is eat healthy, train both aerobically and anaerobically, and supplement your climbing with strength training. I would reccommend this book for someone new to climbing and looking to set the foundation for good health and climbing. More experienced climbers looking for an additional edge or those with a solid understanding of the principles of health and fitness, however, should look elsewhere.
Best training book for all-around climbers available!.......2006-03-05
There are numerous training books for sport climbers who want to send 5.13 or boulder V12. But this is the only book for everyone else. It's a great resource for alpinists, big wall climbers, weekend 5.8 craggers, and most other outdoor athletes. This takes the training and nutrition chapters in Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" to the next level with far more content and detailed explanations. It offers practical advice and emphasizes time efficiency and having fun for a healty lifestyle. Definitely a good book for almost any climber!
What a Great Book.......2004-11-05
I had been climbing for a while, and wanting to get better. When I started to train with climbing in mind, I really didn't know where to start. So, I did the usual things and felt frustrated. Fortunately I came across this book. It really answers questions, is immensely practical, and is a pleasant read. If you want to climb stronger, get this book.
definitely a must-read.......2003-06-16
If you're looking for a book that explains not only what to do to increase your climbing performance but also how to do and why to do, don't look further, get Soles' book right away. I got into mountain climbing 3 years ago and all through these years I craved for a book about training for mountaineering explaining the principles and containing useful sample programs, but all that stuff out there were about training for rock climbing only, except Mark Twight's Extreme Alpinism with its valuable chapters on training. Twight's book is excellent, though the chapters about training are not detailed enough naturally, it's not a book about training after all. Well, I don't have to crave anymore, I found what I was looking for and more in Clyde's book. It doesn't matter if you're an alpinist or a sport climber or whatever, I'm sure this book will work for everyone.
Maybe most important of all, take Clyde's word, learn to have fun while training. This book surely will help you on this one...
Book Description
How to Rock Climb!, now in its fourth edition, is the world's top instructional book on climbing. All the fundamentals--from ethics to getting up the rock--are presented in John Long's classic style. Revised and updated to reflect the modern standards of equipment, technique, and training methods, this guide includes sections on face climbing; crack climbing; ropes, anchors, and belays; getting off the rock; sport climbing; and much more. It is the essential how-to book for rock climbers everywhere.
Customer Reviews:
Not for the best to start off with.......2007-08-11
The book is strange. It's written for beginners but they use a lot of jargon that beginners don't know. Also, while they do their best, there is a lot of things that they talk about but don't show pictures for. It's really difficult to learn about any technique when there are not pictures for half of the topics they discuss.
Best Newbie Climbing Book Available.......2007-08-02
This book has it all. If you are just getting into climbing (or trying to refresh your skills), look no further. John Long details the knots, gear and know-how to get your feet off the ground!
Cool.......2007-05-12
John long's Basic BASIC book on climbing. If you are a beginner...BUY IT! LEarn it...right after Moutaineering FOTH!
Perfect Book.......2005-07-20
This book has all of the information that you wished people would have told you over the years. Well written, fun to read, and extremely useful for techincal information.
How to Rock Climb!.......2002-07-03
I'm a beginner at rock climbing and reading this book for instructional purposes. While it does a good job of explaining fundamentals I have found certain sections difficult to follow - often times different moves will be referecned before the section that explains them (sometimes with a referencing page, sometimes without). I also found it poorly edited in some spots - mis-refenced pages, paragraphs seemingly in wrong order (ie. pg 62 claims there is a "taping" illustration on pg 60, it is clearly on pg 63; the last and second to last paragraphs on page 63 seem to be flip flopped).
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