Book Description
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Includes 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique, detailed anatomical illustrations that explain climbing physiology and an 85-minute DVD that shows concepts in action.
Customer Reviews:
The book on movement training.......2007-08-31
As its title states, it is THE "Guide to Movement performance". Although it is a comprehensive guide on climbing training, its worth is found on the foundations of climbing technique (movement, positioning, etc ...). The authors formulate the very (few) principles of technique and their training through beautiful and comprehensive images and movies. This systematic approach enables the understanding of any move by reducing them to a combination of the basic principles.
The other parts of the book concentrate on the physical and psychological aspects of climbing. Although its principles are also shown, the practical application of these principles were, in my opinion, vague in comparison to the technique part. These sections are still worth reading, but I think "Training for Climbing" contains a richer and more practical approach to physical and psychological training.
Great help for any climber.......2007-08-12
The exercises recommended in the first few chapters were generally for more novice climbers but still, the information provided was useful and provided me with lots of insight into what i've already been doing.
btw, the book is focused more at your sport climbing performance rather than bouldering.
Have fun reaching new heights.......2007-05-29
The book arrived moments before I left the house for a day of climbing. I skimmed through the book, taking note of some new moves to try. I went on to reach personal bests that day.
Now that I've had a chance to read more, the book is still my favorite book on climbing. Full of thought provoking images and ideas, the "Self Coached Climber" is clearly written and fun to read. The book is so full of terrific info and images, I haven't even looked at the enclosed DVD yet.
One of the nicest features about the images is that they show the climbing moves from several angles rather than just one so there is no need to guess at what you can't see (a problem with many climbing books).
Totally fills the void........2007-03-04
This book does what others only hint at - give you comprehensive tools to get past peaks, develop and strengthen weaknesses, and actually create a plan on how to get there.
No other book (and I've gotten them all) does this. I don't agree with the writer that this book should have included how to deal with injuries - that is more than covered in other books and I didn't miss it in this one.
The training plans and exercises in this book (and I only climb 2 x week, not 4 - due to my advanced age) brought my bouldering grade up one level (solid on-sight) and leading two grade: In less than six weeks!!
Don't skip the technique sections - they are vital even for advanced climbers.
Best climbing book.......2007-02-21
Great book, we bought it and like all training activities from this book, now we have a great training plan, thanks!
Book Description
This is the completely revised and updated edition of Flash Training, the fundamental manual for physical and mental training for rock climbers. Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, the author has created a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury. A necessary book for rock climbers everywhere.
Customer Reviews:
Excelent. .......2007-08-16
It is really the definitive guide for climbing performance. Looks like "how to climb 5.12" with a lot more things. No doubt it is a good guide for who wants to upgrade his/her climb level.
Excellent training book.......2006-02-01
This book delivers what it says, "Training for Climbing". It is not a technique book but very specifically a guide to training most efficiently for climbing. If you want to climber harder, this book provides lots of good advice.
Thank you for this book!.......2005-11-19
I am an intermediate climber and have been searching for a good source of training techniques to better myself and accomplish more advanced climbs. "Training for Climbing" was suggested by the folks that work at my gym, so I ran out and bought it. This book is so full of information, that I'll be devouring it for weeks! Everything I've read so far is very fact based and straight forward. The parts on developing mental skills are especially interesting to me, as concentration is one of my biggest areas to work on.
My trainer at the gym has requested to look over the book and then we will formulate a work out program to get me in top shape for climbing. I can't wait! Thank you to Eric J. Horst for this comprehensive book on Training for Climbing.
Just what I was looking for..........2004-08-28
I've been climbing for a few years and I wanted to begin a more serious, structured training program to help me break through to the higher grades. Training For Climbing is the book I was looking for, given its scientific look at improving technique, strength and the mind. While such a detailed, measured approach to training may not be for everyone, it has great appeal to me as a longtime athlete who engaged in formal training for other sports. Training For Climbing helped me understand the many unique aspects to, well, training for climbing, which I found to be much different than what I had been used to from my previous sports experience. Furthermore, I enjoyed seeing the many research references and footnotes, and more importantly I was pleased by the overall LACK of "do as so-and-so hot-shot climber does" or "train like I train." Training For Climbing helped me diagnose and design the best training program for me, and I sense that the book will remain a key resource for me for many years to come.
Good book (but heed the warnings).......2003-12-31
First off you must know that this is a book for a hardcore athletic climber. If you are a novice or a weekend climber you may want to start with something lighter.
This book treats climbing from a super-athletic perspective - covering exercise, nutrition and climbing techniques. Some of the info was way too heavy on the anatomy and physiology.
Still, this book focuses on improving your physical and (often not mentioned in any other book) mental technique. It breaks down skills into physical strength, mental and technique areas. Even though much of the training was over my head, this helped me focus on mental hindrances that were inhibiting my performance and had tests which illuminated my weaknesses and then helped me to focus on strength building exercises to work on those weaknesses (like forearm burn and elbow pain after climbing hard).
Book Description
This book is for climbers of all ages, abilities , and interests who wish to improve their performance. It is for weekend warriors who enjoy 5.6s yet desire to lead 5.10s, and for mountaineers interested in moving faster at altitude. It is for ice climbers who want to move more efficiently over frozen terrain and big wall climbers who want to increase their stamina.
The standard concept of training for climbing has long been, "just climb!" While that may suffice for a few gifted individuals, this philosophy has also resulted in countless climbers reaching performance plateaus and suffering recurring injuries. Even after the benefits of training began to be recognized, many of the regimens developed by climbers were physiologically unsound; some were downright dangerous. Climbing: Training for Peak Performance carefully details the foundation and fundamentals of nutrition for mind and body, flexibility training, aerobic, and strength conditioning, and how to put it all together to help you perform better.
Customer Reviews:
Worth the money.......2007-05-14
I was looking to improve my rock climbing abilities to prepare for the spring. This book is definiately informative with a clear and concise overview of what works and what is fad.
Good Information, But Not Great.......2006-05-06
I initially purchased this book without hesitation upon recognizing Clyde Soles' name and recalling his excellent work as the gear editor for "Rock and Ice." And while he has done an excellent job of amassing a wide variety of information and adjusting it to a climbers needs, none of the material presented is really that original or profound. The bottom line of this books is eat healthy, train both aerobically and anaerobically, and supplement your climbing with strength training. I would reccommend this book for someone new to climbing and looking to set the foundation for good health and climbing. More experienced climbers looking for an additional edge or those with a solid understanding of the principles of health and fitness, however, should look elsewhere.
Best training book for all-around climbers available!.......2006-03-05
There are numerous training books for sport climbers who want to send 5.13 or boulder V12. But this is the only book for everyone else. It's a great resource for alpinists, big wall climbers, weekend 5.8 craggers, and most other outdoor athletes. This takes the training and nutrition chapters in Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" to the next level with far more content and detailed explanations. It offers practical advice and emphasizes time efficiency and having fun for a healty lifestyle. Definitely a good book for almost any climber!
What a Great Book.......2004-11-05
I had been climbing for a while, and wanting to get better. When I started to train with climbing in mind, I really didn't know where to start. So, I did the usual things and felt frustrated. Fortunately I came across this book. It really answers questions, is immensely practical, and is a pleasant read. If you want to climb stronger, get this book.
definitely a must-read.......2003-06-16
If you're looking for a book that explains not only what to do to increase your climbing performance but also how to do and why to do, don't look further, get Soles' book right away. I got into mountain climbing 3 years ago and all through these years I craved for a book about training for mountaineering explaining the principles and containing useful sample programs, but all that stuff out there were about training for rock climbing only, except Mark Twight's Extreme Alpinism with its valuable chapters on training. Twight's book is excellent, though the chapters about training are not detailed enough naturally, it's not a book about training after all. Well, I don't have to crave anymore, I found what I was looking for and more in Clyde's book. It doesn't matter if you're an alpinist or a sport climber or whatever, I'm sure this book will work for everyone.
Maybe most important of all, take Clyde's word, learn to have fun while training. This book surely will help you on this one...
Product Description
NULL
Customer Reviews:
Easy to understand book giving the why and providing the how.......2005-07-20
I thoroughly enjoyed the blend of pure science and application to on rock performance.
The authors are world renowned climbers with a clear enthusiasm for the sport and lucid understanding of it's foundations.
Succinctly, the authors view performance climbing as a harmonious blend of physical and psychological factors, the former subdivided into co-ordination ( technique ),balance, endurance, strength and flexibility.
The book is premised on the concept of the weak link which determines the greatest hinderance to climbing.
For example a body builder who climbs should not work on strength but rather flexibility and technique.
Similarly, a ballerina should not work on balance and flexibility but rather strength and technique.
The key to pushing the grades is to identify your weakest link and train to improve it.
The book is replete with training regimens, exercises, and techniques which address each area stated above.
The single best strategy implicit in the book is to identify when you reach a plateau and to realize that you are now training incorrectly. You should now strive to identify what is now your weakest link and train it. This cycle should continue as long as climb and wish to improve.
A four grade improvement is possible and should be expected within 3 months of adapting your current climbing strategy to this book.
An excellent resource.......2003-07-16
This book will not tell you how to hold onto a tiny crimpy hold with one finger while your feet hunt for somewhere to stand. It WILL tell you lots of things about how muscules work, what good training looks like, and what good climbing feels like.
This is not a recipe book, because in climbing, there is no recipe. Everyone climbs under a different set of constraints - strength, weight, skill, etc. This is a book that will give you the tools you need to watch your own climbing and improve it. Read it cover to cover.
Move forward now or get off the rock.......2002-02-22
Imagine a pursuit that requires bloody fingers to excel at, a life or death commitment to succed in almost any areas of, and then take a look at this book. The cover alone conjures up teen romace rags, the horrendous pink and orange looks like some bizzare lesbian cookbook recipe collection. Don't let the cover deceive you about the content of this book. I've invested a lot of time and energy in texts that only added one more Everest story to my knowledge. NOT SO THIS BOOK. Concepts in this Performance Rock Climbing have been endorsed and used by most major climber you've read about. The back cover features an endorsement from a certain Mark Twight, and if you need any more information than that to take advantage of this book's massive potential for improvement, I suggest trading in your rack of gear for a bigger TV-you'll be more comfortable during your muscle decay, and that's one less person kicking down rocks on my head while answering a celphone halfway through a climb.
To reiterate, this book is one of about five key texts that can supercharge your rate of growth if you'll invest the time to read it. Also get Heather Sagar's book, and Eric Horst, and any John Long from the How To Rock Climb series. And leave the celphone in the car next time, SUV guy.
THE Climbing Technique Book.......2002-01-09
Improving one's ability in any endeavor can be difficult once one has practiced for a few years. One might think that there's not all that much technique involved in rock climbing, since the climber has but two arms and two legs. But it's not that simple. Performance Rock Climbing breaks climbing down into a number of aspects, then teaches how to optimize each and combine the parts into a whole.
When this book hit the shelves, I had stagnated for a few years, unable to improve. Within 6 months, my onsight leading level had jumped nearly a whole grade. I'd learned to channel my energy for climbing in a more efficient way, and to reduce climbing related injuries. Rather than just exercising the climbing muscles, I learned to better exercise my mind - perhaps the most critical muscle of all for a climber.
GREAT.......2001-10-11
If you buy only one rock climbing book, this should be it!! Great overview of training techniques and what you can do on and off rock to improve your overall conditioning and climbing. Explains physiology in easy to understand terms so that each person can customize workouts to their own needs and to fit their goals.
Product Description
NULL
Customer Reviews:
As a beginner, I really liked it........2004-03-29
I was a casual gym climber in Boulder when I was diagnosed with cancer. During my recovery, I picked up this book with high hopes of training myself properly once I was able to climb again. "Climbing Your Best" turned out to be all could hope for and more.
I've done some sports training, but have always been somewhat intimidated by climbing jargon. While quite technical, this book explained the terms and concepts in easy-to-use language (And I work as an editor, so I'm quite picky about this!). Lots of photographs illustrate the discussed training techniques, which went a long way to enhance my understanding of climbing.
My favorite parts were the exercises for the system board and campus board. I couldn't wait to get well again so I could try them out. As an athlete, I love learning new, repetitive exercises that will help me improve my performance. I can only liken it to being a ballerina at the barre. Up until I read this book, the only climbing-specific exercises I did were pilates to increase my core strength.
The whole book was very gym-heavy in its recommendations, but that worked well for me. My schedule (and budget) lends themselves much better to training in a gym a few times a week than attempting to go climbing outdoors that often.
This book isn't the end-all of climbing, and it's hardly a substitute for learning in person, but it does delivers what the title claims: Training to Maximize Your Performance.
Iým sure Ms. Sagar is an excellent and knowledgeable climber.......2002-08-22
...but it doesn't come through here. First, this is a pretty hefty book-164 pages with long sections of unbroken text, small print, and narrow margins. About half is repetition, then there's the twenty-odd pages of kind of pointless anecdotes about friends and climbing areas, and a total of about five pages of reasons why you might not want to do the things the author prescribes. So what's in the remaining fifty-seven pages?
It starts with a physiology discussion that is either so oversimplified as to be meaningless, or just plain wrong (my favorite: `VO2max [is] the maximum amount of air your lungs can hold') and which illustrates a fundamental misunderstanding of muscular vs. respitory function on the part of the author. In her defense, though, some of these concepts are extremely complicated, poorly documented, and in some cases virtually unique to climbing.
The book then goes into a bunch of tests to determine your weaknesses based on the grade you climb. Interesting in an `I'll show you mine if you show me yours' kind of way, but it seems to me that anyone reading a book that uses the words `creatine phosphate system', would already know their weaknesses. Having said that, the advice `train your weaknesses, not your strengths' can't be stressed enough.
Then we get into specific movements on a campus board (a device you shouldn't get within ten feet of unless you consider .12a a warm-up grade) and a system board (something you probably won't ever run into unless you live in Boulder.) The prescribed workouts are kind of obvious-basically simple strategies to climb harder or longer or more (e.g.: climb a route until failure, then lower quickly to an easier section and get back on.) There's no discussion of how these individual workouts should be combined to create a coherent daily schedule.
The section on the extremely important concept of periodization is so convoluted that it confused even me-and I read the Journal of Applied Physiology for fun. The author finishes up with a discussion of individual moves (with photos,) a section on injury prevention that doesn't really go anywhere, extensive advice on motivating, a huge photo spread on stretching, bad advice on taping, a glossary that looks like it was copied out of an old textbook and doesn't seem to track back to what's been discussed (though I can't be sure because, inexplicably, there's no index), and so on.
As much as I hate to give a fellow climber a one star, I can't figure out why this book was written-it covers no new ground, and the ground it does cover is unclear, incomplete, and sometimes inaccurate. Maybe a lot of this results from the author trying to create a book that would speak equally to an unmotivated 5.9 climber and a .15a hopeful, I don't know.
My advice to you? If you're trying to go from 5.10 to 5.11: climb a lot and focus on your technique; you'll get there. 5.11 to 5.12: Buy Eric Horst's much more straight-forward `How to Climb 5.12.' Beyond 5.12: Get Dale Goddard's `Performance Rock Climbing.'
Suitable Only for the Most Advanced Climber (and PhD).......2002-04-29
I was very disappointed in Ms. Reynolds-Sagar's volume. If you're not already climbing at very high levels of performance this is not the book for you. That her advice targets a small elite audience is hardly the only short-coming of her work. She is obviously an academic at heart. This is clear from her unnecessarily obscure language and tortured style of communications. So, if you're a PhD in exercise something or other and are pushing to improve from 5.12 to 5.13 snap up this work. Otherwise, save your money.
A decent guide.......2001-01-24
This book is a fairly decent guide to training for harder climbing. The best part about this book is the tests for grip strength, flexibility, shoulder power etc. it gives guidelines for each and for where a climber should be at various skill levels. if you fall below the recomended number in a certain category it gives you things to do to improve in that one category. all in all i'd go with the much superior "how to climb 5.12" or "flash training" both of which are also cheaper. this book has few pictures and diagrams and is fairly redundant, but the tests and charts are useful.
Book Description
This book is for climbing coaches and teachers and parents of young climbers. It presents an integrated approach to coaching, focusing on individualized evaluation and training of climbers as the key to improving performance and maintaining safety and enthusiasm. It includes exercises for working on movement, training for competitions, sensible physical conditioning, and injury prevention. This is the first comprehensive resource for coaching the fastest-growing sport in the United States today.
Average customer rating:
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The effect of performance cues on beginning indoor rock climbing performance.: An article from: Physical Educator
Jeff McNamee , and
Jeff Steffen
Manufacturer: Thomson Gale
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ASIN: B000Q674LG
Release Date: 2007-05-03 |
Book Description
This digital document is an article from Physical Educator, published by Thomson Gale on January 1, 2007. The length of the article is 3824 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
Citation Details
Title: The effect of performance cues on beginning indoor rock climbing performance.
Author: Jeff McNamee
Publication:
Physical Educator (Magazine/Journal)
Date: January 1, 2007
Publisher: Thomson Gale
Volume: 64
Issue: 1
Page: 2(9)
Distributed by Thomson Gale
Average customer rating:
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The effect of relaxation training on indoor rock climbing performance.(Statistical Data Included): An article from: Physical Educator
Rob Fraser ,
Jeff Steffen ,
Abdulaziz Elfessi , and
Jack Curtis
Manufacturer: Phi Epsilon Kappa Fraternity
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Digital
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Release Date: 2005-07-28 |
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This digital document is an article from Physical Educator, published by Phi Epsilon Kappa Fraternity on September 22, 2001. The length of the article is 2250 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
Citation Details
Title: The effect of relaxation training on indoor rock climbing performance.(Statistical Data Included)
Author: Rob Fraser
Publication:
Physical Educator (Refereed)
Date: September 22, 2001
Publisher: Phi Epsilon Kappa Fraternity
Volume: 58
Issue: 3
Page: 134(6)
Article Type: Statistical Data Included
Distributed by Thomson Gale
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