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Songs of the Earth: A Tribute to Nature, in Word and Image (Running Press Miniature Editions)
Virginia Mattingly Manufacturer: Running Press Book Publishers ProductGroup: Book Binding: Paperback Similar Items:
ASIN: 1561385239 |
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True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna
David Roberts Manufacturer: Simon & Schuster ProductGroup: Book Binding: Hardcover Similar Items:
ASIN: 0684867575 |
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The climax of Maurice Herzog's mountaineering classic, Annapurna, is at the moment of descent, when Herzog and Louis Lachenal tumble from the 26,493-foot frozen summit. Herzog loses his gloves and the two barely reach camp with dead hands and feet. This is also the point where Herzog's tale falls apart, writes David Roberts, and it has taken nearly 50 years to uncover the real story behind the nationalist-tinged French expedition in 1950. Roberts, himself a climber of some accomplishment who admits to worshipping the heroics of the Annapurna team as a youth, traveled around the world interviewing friends and family of the team members (all deceased, save for Herzog), and chasing down original manuscripts and diaries of the three team members to get the story straight. His findings do not reveal the fearless, selfless leader Herzog painted himself to be in his famous book and subsequent writings.Roberts reconstructs the trip to Annapurna beginning on the Heathrow runway: as the widowed Francoise Rebuffat recalls, Herzog required his highly experienced teammates--Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray, and Gaston Rebuffat--to sign a contract that granted him full leadership of the expedition, along with rights to publish any and all accounts of the trip for five years following their return. Conflicting stories to Herzog's "official" account begin from that moment. Herzog writes of his team's indefatigable support and loyalty to their leader, but in reality discord nearly crippled the success of the climb. In order to preserve the reputation he built for himself in Annapurna, Herzog, throughout his life, censored any account of the trip authored by the other team members, even "editing" Lachenal's posthumously published climbing memoir, Carnets de Vertige.
While the dissection of Herzog's ego here is expected, Roberts discovers that none of his heroes are what he thought they were. "More rounded," he surmises, and ultimately better for it. Equal parts memoir, climbing lore, investigative journalism, and biography, Roberts provides the missing dimensions of the climb and the three extraordinary climber's lives--Lachenal, Terray, and Rebuffat--that Herzog so tirelessly strove to conceal. --Lolly Merrell
Book Description
The first conquest ever made of an 8,000-meter peak occurred in June 1950, when a French team reached the summit of Annapurna in the Himalaya. The achievement was a source of great pride in postwar France, and the expedition leader, Maurice Herzog, became a national hero. His account of the expedition, Annapurna, remains to this day the best-selling mountaineering book ever.But there is more to this story than Herzog's book reveals. Annapurna is one man's version of a triumph that came at a tragic cost, as Herzog lost all his fingers and toes to frostbite, his partner Louis Lachenal all his toes. The book describes a valiant effort by a unified, self-sacrificing team. The reality, however, was otherwise. The expedition was torn by dissent. The honors heaped on Herzog were not shared by the other climbers, some of whom deserved them as much as their leader. In truth, the triumph of the expedition was all the more remarkable, and the story of what really happened is far richer than Annapurna suggests.
In place of Maurice Herzog's idealized version of the conquest, David Roberts offers in True Summit the real story of the Annapurna expedition. Drawing on original manuscripts and letters, some of them unpublished, as well as books recently published in France, he gives the three superb climbers who accompanied Herzog -- Lachenal, Lionel Terray, and Gaston Rébuffat -- long overdue recognition for their achievement. At the same time, he has interviewed Herzog, the lone survivor among the climbers, and puts his account of the climb in proper perspective.
Annapurna fired the imaginations of millions of readers, including thousands of young climbers, the author among them. Roberts writes about the effect that the book had on him and other climbers he knew. He explains why it has taken nearly fifty years for the full story of this famous expedition to emerge and how the revelations will change forever the way we think about this victory in the mountains and the climbers who achieved it.
Customer Reviews:
Atonishingly badly written book.......2002-10-29
My advice is to go through the bibliography at the end, and to follow writings of the expedition members.
Revealing glimpse of human nature.......2001-12-04
True Summit added a whole new richness to the Annapurna story. To me, this book was not so much a "debunking" of Herzog's account, as much as filling out the missing dimension. Here, the climbers become real people with individual passions, foibles, and remarkable skills. Clearly Herzog's version diminished the accomplishments of his teammates, but might we say that the end (national pride and financial support for future expeditions) at least partially justified the means (a highly idealized account of the climb -- essentially a propaganda tool)? I particularly was fascinated by the differences between Herzog's initial rendition of the climb and his later "spiritual" retelling -- and both of those stories contrasted against the diaries and conversations of Lachenal, Terray, and Rebuffat. If one man (Herzog) could convince himself of a new version of "truth" -- even in the face of HIS OWN written account! -- then why should we be surprised that the four eyewitnesses have different stories?
Roberts' overlay of his own climbing history onto the Annapurna story sometimes struck me as self-congratulatory while I read the book. Would this have been as strong a book without Roberts' own story? Maybe so, but I think what he's trying to say is that Herzog was both a great man and a small man during the Annapurna climb... and so were the others. To worship any one of the Annapurna climbers (as Roberts did, one after another) is perhaps to blind ourselves to our own strengths and weaknesses.
I think the best way to sum up is to say that Herzog's Annapurna was a good story, but True Summit really made me think about teamwork, leadership, and the nature of the "truth" that we tell ourselves and the world.
Annapurna, Considered.......2001-08-20
Mr. Roberts, in this slim book, definitively shows that:
1. Maurice Herzog was a fine climber, an idealist, a leader of men, and a gracious individual who was very partial to publicity and glory.
2. Louis Lachenal, who summitted with Mr. Herzog, did not get his share of the credit.
3. The profits from "Annapurna" went to Club Alpin François. None of the team members, including Mr. Herzog, received any monetary benefits from the book's publication.
4. Fellow members Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat were absolutely indispensable to the success of the climb. Their bravery and generosity were extraordinary.
Other reviewers have mentioned that one must read "Annapurna" before reading this book. I did so, and found it highly readable, spirited and Mr. Herzog's enthusiasm shows through every page. I thought a lot of the book was taken up by just finding a route to the mountain, but all in all, an interesting read. Most of the points Mr. Roberts makes are implied in "Annapurna." Though there is no denying Louis Lachenal is the forgotten man.
Mr. Roberts makes a large point of how all team members were forbidden by contract to write a book about the expedition for five years. These rights were given solely to Maurice Herzog. Such a contract is common to this day for large sponsored expeditions. The only reason we have had such a plethora of books starting with "Into Thin Air" about the 1996 Everest expedition is because there were no corporate or government sponsors for that trip.
The book leaves a bad taste. It smacks of profiteering by unfairly dragging down Maurice Herzog who does not deserve it. Not recommended.
Corrects A Distorted Record.......2001-03-06
Mr. David Roberts did a nice job of bringing the reader along and sharing the climb and the distorted history that followed. More importantly he helped to reinforce what appears to be the truth about the climb, and to apportion credit as it should have been done so many decades ago.
I have read several accounts of the 1996 Everest expedition that caused so much loss of life, and to my surprise so much finger pointing by those who survived the ordeal. Many memories seemed to be influenced by the mental strain the mountain causes in climbers at the highest altitudes, but some seemed to persist even when photographs contradicted a given Author's statement. The climbers in 1996 had experienced guides and protective clothing that the first climbers on Annapurna would have thought to be the creation of science fiction. So, as Mr. Roberts began his story it seemed to be a case of memories created when badly injured bodies, and oxygen-deprived minds had left gaps. Even on the miserable trek back, people using morphine and suffering amputations, and dozens of other tortures recounted much of the originally published story.
Just as human nature was able to overcome hideous physical events, it too was able to distort the record for the benefit of one man at the expense of others who climbed with him, attained the summit with him, and saved his life. The beneficiary of the distortions was alive and interviewed for this book, and it was those interviews, combined with the evidence proving the true story that made this correcting of the historical record so important.
Mr. Maurice Herzog clearly intended for the historical outcome he contrived, and that nearly became the permanent record, to be the only record. From the oath he administered to his "teammates" to his continuing denial of the facts, and his refusal to allow access to records that further document the truth, Mr. Herzog took what was a group success that could have been nothing other than positive, and distorted it into a personal fantasy that provided him a lifetime of security which he had no more right to than the other men he climbed with. He would not allow the Author to print a picture of the other man who made the top with him, how vain, petty, and pathetic.
It would be convenient to say an old man's memory is faulty, but as he demonstrated himself, Mr. Herzog may indeed be advanced in years, but he is what he was, a pathetic self promoter that fictionalized an event that was extraordinary, it needed no embellishment, and the triumph certainly did not need to be the domain of one vain individual.
An amazing book.......2000-09-27
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True Summit : What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent on Annapurna
David Roberts Manufacturer: Simon & Schuster ProductGroup: Book Binding: Paperback Similar Items:
ASIN: 0743203275 |
Book Description
In a startling look at the classic Annapurna -- the most famous book about mountaineering -- David Roberts discloses what really happened on the legendary expedition to the Himalayan peak.
In June 1950, a team of mountaineers was the first to conquer an 8,000-meter peak. Maurice Herzog, the leader of the expedition, became a national hero in France, and Annapurna, his account of the historic ascent, has long been regarded as the ultimate tale of courage and cooperation under the harshest of conditions.
In True Summit, David Roberts presents a fascinating revision of this classic tale. Using newly available documents and information gleaned from a rare interview with Herzog (the only climber on the team still living), Roberts shows that the expedition was torn by dissent. As he re-creates the actual events, Roberts lays bare Herzog's self-serving determination and bestows long-delayed credit to the most accomplished and unsung heroes.
These new revelations will inspire young adventurers and change forever the way we think about this victory in the mountains and the climbers who achieved it.
Customer Reviews:
Judgment.......2006-10-30
Detailed but Interesting.......2006-04-20
The view from the Chamonix guides.......2003-08-04
Most moving is the story of Lachenal accompanying Herzog to the summit not because he cared about the summit, but because his professionalism compelled him to return his partner to safety. Lachenal lost his toes and never again climbed professionally.
This is the story of the guides, talented, courageous, and imperfect, whom we can respect and learn from, for quietly rising to the challenge of making the most of a compromising situation. While the the author's own mountaineering experiences in the chapters on Rebuffat and Terray could arguably have been saved for a different book, they explain the spirituality and passion he conveys as he interviews their survivors.
TRUE SUMMIT...TRULY WONDERFUL.......2002-04-15
'True Summit' is a very interesting read in terms of its research, as well as its historical and archival detail. Its author, David Roberts, is himself a mountaineer and has an innate understanding of the subject matter of the book, which contributes to its success.
I would, however, highly recommend that one first read Maurice Herzog's "Annapurna" which is Herzog's first person, romanticized account of the expedition and the source for much of what is analyzed in this book. Reading it will ground readers of 'True Summit' in the context out of which this book arises, and will make it that much more enjoyable.
After the ostensible summit of Annapurna (more about this in 'True Summit') by Herzog and Louis Lachenal who were aided in their harrowing descent by fellow expeditioners, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat, only Maurice Herzog went on to become a national hero in France. The other three mountaineers, all of whom were more experienced and proficient, were largely ignored in what was to become a carefully orchestrated, media event around Maurice Herzog.
"True Summit" attempts to set the story straight and right past wrongs. It also helps to debunk the self-serving, though gripping, sanitized account authored by expedition leader Maurice Herzog. What emerges is a more realistic picture of what may have actually transpired during that fateful, 1950 French expedition.
This book ensures that the contributions of three of the main protagonists, Lachenal, Terray, and Rebuffat, all highly experienced mountaineers from the Chamonix region of France, will not be forgatten. It is a memorial to their efforts during that expedition and well worth reading.
Roberts Debunks a Mountaineering Fairytale.......2002-02-06
This first conquest of a peak over 8,000-meters (26,240-feet) was for France, then mired in a post-war depression, paramount to Neil Armstrong's walk on the moon.
The stirring book that followed, "Annapurna," written by Herzog, the expedition's leader, has been published in over 40 languages and has sold over 11-million copies becoming the best selling mountaineering book of all time.
For Herzog, who lost all his fingers and toes to frostbite, the book brought a life of fame and fortune. Although he never again did any serious climbing, Herzog became mayor of the famous French skiing town of Chamonix, served as Minister of Youth and Sports under Charles de Gaulle, was president and CEO of several major businesses, and served for many years on the International Olympic Committee.
In the years that followed, most of the world, including France, forgot about the expedition's three professional mountain guides: Lachenal, who lost all his toes after reaching the summit and died in a skiing accident in 1955; and Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat, who gave-up their own summit bid to rescue the frostbitten Lachenal and Herzog.
In a 1980 article for the Sierra Club's journal "Assent," David Roberts, an acclaimed mountaineer himself, ranked "Annapurna" as the best mountaineering book ever written. Like most of the great climbers of the later 20th century, it was this eloquent and passionate book that first inspired him to seriously climb. So it was a bitter disappointment when in 1996 Roberts met Michel Guerin, a specialty publisher of mountaineering books in Chamonix, who revealed for him the truth behind "Annapurna."
In addition to an oath of unquestioning obedience to Herzog, the climbing team was required just before boarding the airplane to Nepal, to sign a contract forbidding them to publish anything about the expedition for five years after returning to France. Many of the climbers considered abandoning the expedition but relented. It was to be for each of them, their first trip to the Himalayas.
Near the end of the moratorium, Lachenal was preparing an autobiographical memoir, including all of his plainspoken criticisms of Herzog and the expedition. But after his death, Herzog was appointed tuteur, a legal guardian, of Lachenal's family. Along with Lucien Davies, the most influential man in French alpinism and the author of the oath and publishing moratorium, Herzog "pruned every scrap of critical, sardonic, or embittered commentary the guide had penned," about the Annapurna expedition. The whitewashed book, "Carnets du Vertige," was published in 1956.
For Herzog, sacrificing his fingers and toes was a minor price for the sublime victory that was reaching the summit of Annapurna. For Lachenal, it was merely a waste.
In TRUE SUMMIT, Roberts chronicles and analyzes the controversy stirred by the 1996 publishing of an unexpurgated version of "Carnets" and a subsequent biography of Rebuffat, which also revealed a highly critical view of the abilities and motives of Herzog, now the only surviving climbing member of the expedition.
Until his death from cancer in 1985, Rebuffat hid the negative of a photograph Herzog made Lachenal take on the summit, showing Herzog holding the banner of the tire company that employed him, the company that had contributed 500,000 francs to the expedition. For this treason, Rebuffat was never again invited on an official French mountaineering expedition.
The unveiling portrait of Davies and Herzog begins to ring similar to Ayn Rand's insincerely-altruistic and power-hungry characters Ellesworth Toohey and Peter Keating from her 1943 novel, "The Fountainhead."
Roberts' research is thorough as it is engaging, including numerous interviews with Lachenal's son, Rebuffat's widow and one with Herzog himself.
But what makes TRUE SUMMIT a truly enjoyable journey is Roberts' personal connection to the characters. As a young climber in the 1960s, tackling many dubious assents in Alaskan range, Roberts and his partners imagined themselves being Lachenal, Terray and Rebuffat. This book finally gives credit where credit is due. TRUE SUMMIT is a must-read for any serious armchair, or actual, climber.
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True Summit : What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna
David Roberts Manufacturer: Simon and Schuster ProductGroup: Book Binding: Hardcover ASIN: B000O5Y0DY |
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True Summit. What Really Happened On The Legendary Ascent Of Annapurna
DAVID. ROBERTS Manufacturer: Simon & Schuster ProductGroup: Book Binding: Hardcover ASIN: B000P1E4X8 |
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The Pocket Dictionary Of Signing
Rod R. Butterworth , and Mickey Flodin Manufacturer: Perigee Trade ProductGroup: Book Binding: Paperback Similar Items:
ASIN: 039951743X |
Customer Reviews:
helpful.......2005-11-20
NO help to me.......2005-05-03
A Good Book To Have Around.......2003-09-01
Learn to Sign.......2003-04-15
Learn to Sign.......2003-04-15
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The Pocket Dictionary of Signing
Rod R.; Flodin, Mickey Butterworth Manufacturer: Perigee Books ProductGroup: Book Binding: Mass Market Paperback ASIN: B000PHBZXE |
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The Pocket Dictionary of Signing
Rod R.; Flodin, Mickey Butterworth Manufacturer: Perigee ProductGroup: Book Binding: Mass Market Paperback ASIN: B000X1PPL0 |
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The Pocket Dictionary of Signing
Manufacturer: Perigee ProductGroup: Book Binding: Mass Market Paperback ASIN: B000GRRM08 |
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Pocket Dictionary of Signing, Over 600 Signs of American Sign Language
Rod & Mickey Flodin Butterworth Manufacturer: Perigee ProductGroup: Book Binding: Paperback ASIN: B000NDLQCU |
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Forced Journey
Bev Conklin Manufacturer: Smithfield Press ProductGroup: Book Binding: Paperback ASIN: 1930566484 |
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Forced Journey
John Duncklee Manufacturer: Barbed Wire Publishing ProductGroup: Book Binding: Paperback ASIN: 0967856639 |
Book Description
Forced Journey is the continuing story of Quiet Water, an Anglo boy found by the Hopi Indians after being separated from his pinoneer parents during a storm. Raised as a Hopi by his Indian parents, Tall Deer and Blue-Flower-Blooming, Quiet Water must lead a column of U.S. Cavalry on an expedition to locate sites for forts that will protect settlers on their way to California. The tribal elders have instructed Quiet Water to lead the soldiers as far away from the village and Indian lands as possible. The soldiers' commanding officer, Lieutenant Moser, has decided to forcibly return Quiet Water to his Christian parents. Quiet Water must walk a narrow path between following the elders' requests and not being held captive by the soldiers. It is a story of life choices that a young boy entering adulthood must make. Torn between two cultures, the story of Quiet Water's decision will surprise and delight the young adult readers.Customer Reviews:
Rave Reviews!.......2003-07-21
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The Refugee Journey: Psycho-Social Perspectives on Forced Migration
Giorgia Dona Manufacturer: Palgrave Macmillan ProductGroup: Book Binding: Hardcover ASIN: 1403994560 Release Date: 2008-10-14 |
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1838: The Trail of Tears: forced to resettle in what became Oklahoma, many Cherokee died on the brutal journey west.(Times Past): An article from: New York Times Upfront
Rex Bowman Manufacturer: Scholastic, Inc. ProductGroup: Book Binding: Digital ASIN: B00096T3EY Release Date: 2005-07-13 |
Book Description
This digital document is an article from New York Times Upfront, published by Scholastic, Inc. on January 24, 2005. The length of the article is 1856 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
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Forced journey.(Editorials)(Memorial would mark wartime internment)(Editorial) : An article from: The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR)
Manufacturer: Thomson Gale ProductGroup: Book Binding: Digital ASIN: B000CQNBCG Release Date: 2005-12-05 |
Book Description
This digital document is an article from The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR), published by Thomson Gale on November 27, 2005. The length of the article is 592 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
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A journey not forgotten.(General News)(`Forced Journey' memorial to an injustice to Japanese-Americans nears its unveiling in Eugene): An article from: The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR)
Gale Reference Team Manufacturer: Thomson Gale ProductGroup: Book Binding: Digital ASIN: B000NOK78S Release Date: 2007-02-16 |
Book Description
This digital document is an article from The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR), published by Thomson Gale on February 12, 2007. The length of the article is 888 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
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Their forced journeys lead to a day of remembrance.(General News): An article from: The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR)
Manufacturer: Thomson Gale ProductGroup: Book Binding: Digital ASIN: B000EU1RNA Release Date: 2006-03-02 |
Book Description
This digital document is an article from The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR), published by Thomson Gale on February 26, 2006. The length of the article is 594 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
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Forced Journey through Spain & France as POW 1810-14 vol II
Maj. Gen Lord Blayney Manufacturer: E.Kerby ProductGroup: Book Binding: Hardcover ASIN: B000J2VWBA |
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Sequel to A narrative of a forced journey through Spain and France, as a prisoner of war, in 1810 to 1813: Including observations on the present state of Ireland,
Andrew Thomas Blayney Blayney Manufacturer: Printed for E. Kerby, bookseller and stationer, Stafford Street, Bond Street ProductGroup: Book Binding: Unknown Binding ASIN: B0008AG4RA |
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