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In 1978 Jim Wickwire became the first American to top 28,250-foot K2, the second highest peak after Mt. Everest (for some, his solo bivouac near the summit the same night is an even greater feat). But it is a previous expedition to K2 three years earlier--and the author's unflinching assessment of that trip--which sets the tone for the book. "K2, the mountain that would one day represent my greatest success," he writes, "was in 1975 the scene of my greatest failure. It was a failure not because someone died or suffered a serious injury, but because my obsession to reach the summit helped doom our expedition to disappointment, discord, and, for a time, disgrace." Wickwire's memoir of a climbing life is riveting when he sticks to the mountains--including attempts on Everest, Denali, and Aconcagua--and particularly fascinating for its candid look at the internal machinations of big-time climbing expeditions: the planning, logistics, and training as well as the egos and rivalries that can derail an expedition. The lugubrious details are also here. More than one climbing partner doesn't escape from a crevasse, but it is a price exacted by the mountains, and Wickwire treats both his lost friends and the terrain with due respect.
Book Description
Adventurist Jim Wickwire has lived life on the edge -- literally. An eyewitness to glory, terror, and tragedy above 20,000 feet, he has braved bitter cold, blinding storms, and avalanches to become what the Los Angeles Times calls "one of America's most extraordinary and accomplished high-altitude mountaineers." Although his incredible exploits have inspired a feature on 60 Minutes, an award-winning PBS documentary, a Broadway play, and a full-length film, he hasn't told his remarkable story in his own words -- until now.
Among the world's most intrepid and fearless climbers, Jim Wickwire has traveled the globe, from Alaska to the Alps, from the Andes to the Himalayas, in search of fresh challenges and new heights to conquer. Along the way he accumulated an extraordinary roster of historic achievements. He was one of the first two Americans to reach the summit of the 28,250-foot K2, the world's second highest peak, acknowledged as the toughest and most dangerous to climb. He completed the first alpine-style ascent of Alaska's forbidding Mt. McKinley, spending several nights without tents in snowcaves, crevasses, and open bivouacs. But with the triumphs came harrowing incidents of suffering and loss that haunt him still. On one climb, his shoulder broken by a fall, he watched helplessly as a friend slowly froze to death, trapped in an ice crevasse. Buffeted by storms, Wickwire spent two weeks utterly alone on a remote glacier before his rescue. On two other expeditions he witnessed three fellow climbers plunge thousands of feet, vanishing into the mountain mist.
A successful Seattle attorney, Wickwire climbed his first mountain in 1960 and discovered the wonder of leaving behind the complexities of the civilized world for the pure life-and-death logic of granite, glacier, and snow. Deeply compelled by the allure of nature and the thrill of risk, he pushed himself to the limits of physical and mental endurance for thirty-five years, ultimately climbing into legend.
After more than three decades of uncommon challenges, Wickwire faced a crisis of heart -- a turning point that threatened his faith in himself and his hope in the future. How he reassessed his priorities and rededicated his life -- to his family and to his community -- completes a unique and moving portrait of one man's courage, commitment , and grace under pressure. Addicted to Danger is a tale of adventure in its truest sense.
Customer Reviews:
Great Successes and FAILURES in Mountaineering.......2005-12-07
All too often we read about the awesome success stories of mountaineers. I like how Jim shares his successes and failures on the world's highest mountains. Although Jim's adventures are on a grander scale than my own (see Rocky Mountain Adventure Collection), we both go out of our way to share the "failures." When facing the extreme forces of nature, you can't always reach the summit. There are many times you must choose between attaining your goal, or surviving. Jim had the brains to choose life when faced with many decisions that could have cost him his life. I was pleased to read that we both regard Reinhold Messner as the greatest mountaineer of all! I also enjoyed hearing about Jim's struggles to balance his climbing desires against his family's needs. There is no doubt his family suffered while he was out fulfilling his mountaineering desires. On one hand, he had to climb while he had his health and youth. On the other hand, he lost invaluable time with his family that is forever lost. Even though I've fantasized about devoting years to climbing like Jim did, I realize that you have obligations once you decide to become a husband and a father. My family comes before my "selfish" desires of climbing.
He Can't Explain.......2005-10-07
This is a great book to read if you want to learn more about Jim Wickwire and some of the mountaineering greats of the modern era. If you want a well-written book that makes you feel as though you're climbing a lonely peak in bitter cold yourself, read Krakauer's "Into Thin Air." For all the time Wickwire has spent in amazing and beautiful surroundings, he seems largely unable to describe them. Wickwire's story telling always seems focused on the action and never on the scenery. Half the mountaineering terms he tosses around are only explained in the glossary you find in the back of the book.
It was interesting to me how the writing about non-climbing related aspects of his life are presented in a fairly lively manner while his accounts of his early expeditions seem to have been copied out of his journal without much in the way of revision. This book would really have benefited from a vigorous, professional editing. In fact, his publisher should have demanded it. Wickwire certainly has a story or two to tell and it was irritating to for me to be distracted by his clunky writing.
All that being said, he has led an interesting life in the mold of the classic Victorian gentleman explorer-gone for months at a time, knowing his wife and children (five!) only through the post. People have called him narcissistic, self-centered, and monomaniacal. All true to some degree, I am sure, but how else would you expect him to have accomplished so much? His list of mountaineering accomplishments, included here in loving detail, is astonishing.
Reading this book never answered for me the question of "why?" Why take these huge risks time after time? As someone who has been willing to push myself to the point of hallucination for nothing more than bragging rights and a t-shirt or belt buckle, I should have a pretty good handle on the "why" question, but I don't. That is perhaps why he doesn't really tell us "why" in this book. Maybe he really doesn't know either. Maybe it's just pretty fun to be up on the mountain with a fairly simple set of obligations in front of you: Keep moving. Stay alive.
Maybe it's on the edge of death we finally see what is life. Maybe some of us need that more than others. Maybe Wickwire needed that a lot more than the rest of us.
I suspect that this book was able to come to into being only because Wickwire had retired from serious climbing. I also suspect it was harder for him to write the book than to mount an expedition to climb Everest. Most of the stories have a painful aspect, and he doesn't skimp on the unflattering details. While it's not a great mountaineering book, it was certainly an interesting read. I'm glad he finally wrote it.
What every climber should face.. why am I here?.......2005-08-19
Ok, I was a climber, sort of, well I climbed some of the easy stuff near Seattle. And I realized that in order to keep the thrill of climbing up, as one gets better, you have to keep increasing the danger level. Hence the risk of injury and death keeps increasing until you decide you've had enough via an injury or your life's priorities change and your ice axe becomes a gardening tool.
Wick, well, he seemed to attract more than anyone's share of disasters and this book accounts for that. Why would anyone climb with him? Yet he keeps going and so do others continue to climb with him. It's the climbers lie, "It won't happen to me", "They made a mistake I would never make."
The other great thing about this book is that it should cause every climber to look at your personal relationships and see whether you are being fair to your other life's responsiblities. Wick did not have the same sense of priorites that I have, but then I quit climbing. It's a very personal choice and no one answer is right.
Anyway most climbing books fall into a routine, "the brave set out on a journey", "A sherpa/weak member gets hurt", "We make it/or not" and come home. "Weather was rough but we were tougher". This book looks also at the human condition of why climb at all and for that Wick should be commended for laying it all out. Like him or not, this book was probably one of the bravest things he ever did. Who among us could stand this close scrutney.
Just Awful.......2005-05-08
Instead of a testament to his climbing expeditions, this book might best serve as a testament to what seems to be Jim Wickwire's blatant misogyny and egocentrism.
After detailing how he decided his wife should leave college to support him, Wickwire regales us semi-boastfully with anecdotes relating how he expected his wife to be nothing more than a housekeeper, child-rearer, and "sex object" (his words). After insisting on a large family, and getting offended at a well-meaning priest who gently suggested birth control, Wickwire (by his own admission) proceeds to by-and-large shirk his duties as a father to all five of his children, supporting them only in the economic sense.
We then get to read his thoughts about the innate subordinism of female climbers, and their tendency toward sexual hijinks on the mountains. The brunt of Wickwire's finger-pointing rests solidly on the shoulders of the female climbers he discusses, until he falls "in love" with Marty Hoey, a talented female climber with the sense, it seems, never to have gotten seriously involved with Wickwire, despite his attempts to the contrary. Wickwire seems to read much into incidents like feet (separated by different sleeping bags) accidentally touching in a overcrowded tent. After the reader is forced to endure reading a series of desperate, petulant, and adolescent notes and conversations directed from Wickwire to Hoey, he recounts her death on Everest perfunctorily, for the most part, and in terms of how his wife forgave him for this one-sided indiscretion. All things considered, I'm not sure who should be more outraged: Mary Lou Wickwire, reading her husband's embarassing account of "falling in love" with Hoey (and knowing all her friends and peers will be reading it too), or Marty Hoey herself, to whom Wickwire attributes a number of childish and maudlin love notes, and who is no longer here to defend herself.
To be fair, Wickwire may not be the narrow-minded boor he appears to be as when, in 1985, he sadly acknowledges of the inevitable entry of women into the legal profession (one wonders what rock he was living under, or climbing over, not to know that women entered the legal profession long before then). The book, while also hampered by a ridiculous title, is full of stilted prose and dialogue. In Wickwire's world, climbers never say things like "We've gotta get down the mountain, fast." Instead, they make proclamations like, "We must descend quickly, or we shall perish upon the mountain." If they were climbing in King Arthur's time, maybe; in this day and age, no one speaks like that. As a result, the dialogue sounds stilted and fictitious, even if it had a basis in fact. The prose lingers too long, and clumsily, on Wickwire's relationships with those around him, even though his relationships seem rather shallow. Again, this may be the fault of the co-writer or the source, one never knows.
I would heartily recommend saving your money and time, and reading a more climbing-related and less self-centered and angsty text.
Honest & Riveting Account.......2004-09-18
I liked this book and found it hard to put down. I appreciated how honest Wickwire was in telling about his obsession with climbing. He didn't get defensive in retrospect and pin the blame on others when things went wrong on the climb. He openly admitted his mistakes and weaknesses, as well as his strengths. I think he realizes his self-absorption and even selfishness in undertaking such risks.
Although some will disagree, I thought the fact that he openly wrote about his feelings for fellow climber Marty Hoey was refreshing. I don't think that many climbers who become engaged in a "romantic entanglement" while on an expedition would have the guts to tell about it. Who knows though, perhaps he wouldn't have written about his relationship with Marty had she lived.
Although the guy is selfish and egotistical at times, I still came away liking him. He's human with weaknesses like the rest of us.
I only gave this book 4 stars because it's not the best mountaineering book I've read, but I do highly recommend it as one of my favorites.
Book Description
The Mongols formed one of the finest armies ever known--and when they swept across the Danube on Christmas Day 1241, the west lay at the mercy of these "horsemen from hell." From a wealth of contemporary sources comes the story of these soldiers, and especially of Subedei Bahadur, the illiterate military genius who brought 20th-century warfare to Medieval Europe. A fascinating examination of their tactics and training--good enough to invent strategies that Rommel and Patton would later use to such devastating effect--proves the Mongols were more than mere barbarians: they were martial masterminds of the highest order.
Customer Reviews:
Fills in a historical gap very well.......2007-04-12
I like to read about periods in human history that are like gray areas in my knowledge. This book is a pretty quick read and explains the Mongol's invasions of Europe form their point of view and the Europeans'. Not a lot of details about weaponry or even tactics, but plenty of discussion about the individual leaders on both sides. I banged this one out and now I know who they were and how they affected Europe. I recommend it if you want that kind of quick summary.
I only gave it four stars because I did not want anyone to think that this is the be all and end all of books about the Mongols. It is what it is.
Great Read!.......2007-02-07
I wasn't sure if I should give this 4 stars or 5. Its hard to rate because it is, well, just different from most history books.
The book is just a plain, great read. I read a decent number of history books. Now, most scholars go out of their way to present their case, and back it up with quotes, research, confirming details, archaeology, etc. The reader comes away with a great sense and a fine argument.
This book is history, but it doesn't give supporting details. It is fast and fun to read -- in that respect, it reminds me of Livy or Herodotus!
The lack of supproting material does not necessarily mean he is wrong. I think he is best when speculating on motives, explaining the why's of the mindsets of the leaders of the West and of the Mongols. I actually bought the arguments better than a lot of the scholarly works I read. However, there are clearly times he discusses topics for which his knowledge is inferior as other reviewers have said.
The book is also weird in its subject matter. What exactly is the focus of the book? When I read the first chapters, I thought the book was a de facto tribute to the brillaint general Subudai. But this changes. It also isn't just about the campaigns in the West, but thre is more material about Western Campaigns.
My conclusion is that the author loves the period of time, and is fascinated by the Mongols, and wishes to talk about them. If you want to learn a lot about the period, and really ENJOY reading a book, this is as highly recommended a book as I can think of. If, however, you want history presented with well deveolped arguments and theory, pass.
Good military history.......2006-09-17
This is a good, solid military history. For a more general history of Ghengis Khan there are several other sources--John Man being the best of the recent ones. Weatherford's book is bad--too much of the noble savage stereotype rather than a real, honest picture of Genghis Khan. Also, some of his claims are not well supported. (Ghenghis Khan invented trading posts? I can't find a major Asian or European civilization that didn't have them before the Mongols.)
not a real author or scholar.......2005-11-11
The author has little knowledge on the subject he is writing about. He believes the Great Mongol people did not contribute anything to modern history but their contribution in military warfare, commerce (ie: invented trading post, currency ) etc.
The author should read a real scholarly work by Jack Weatherford
" Genghis Khan and the making of the modern world" Chambers believes russia and middle east became backward culturally because the Mongols ruled them for 200 years. The Mongols were
just superior to the russians. I rate a 3 because chambers is
ignorant of the subject.
RECOMMENED ADDITION TO YOUR COLLECTION.......2004-09-16
This is an excellent book. Like anyother work, it should not be taken as the beginning and the end of the subject, but rather an addition or supplement. As one reviewer pointed out, some of the research noted here, may be questionable, but when you review the research of the individuals (scholars) making this claim, you find the same problem with their own work..so...all in all, this is a good one to add to your collection. It is well written, injoyable and above all, informative.
Product Description
Based on a wealth of contemporarysources, "The devil's Horsemen" examines the origins and consequences of the Mongol invasion of Europe. It describes the tactics and training of the finest army the world has ever seen., and tells the story of Subedei Bahadur, the illiterate military genius, who brought twentieth-century warfare to medieval europe.
Product Description
Well read history of the Mongols.
Average customer rating:
- A technical approach towards causality
- What is the cause of intolerance?
- Important but difficult
- A Pioneering Book on Causality
- A review of "Causality"
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Causality: Models, Reasoning And Inference
Judea Pearl
Manufacturer: Cambridge University Press
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Learning Bayesian Networks
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Probabilistic Reasoning In Intelligent Systems: Networks of Plausible Inference
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ASIN: 0521773628 |
Book Description
Written by one of the pre-eminent researchers in the field, this book provides a comprehensive exposition of modern analysis of causation. It shows how causality has grown from a nebulous concept into a mathematical theory with significant applications in the fields of statistics, artificial intelligence, philosophy, cognitive science, and the health and social sciences. Pearl presents a unified account of the probabilistic, manipulative, counterfactual and structural approaches to causation, and devises simple mathematical tools for analyzing the relationships between causal connections, statistical associations, actions and observations. The book will open the way for including causal analysis in the standard curriculum of statistics, artifical intelligence, business, epidemiology, social science and economics. Students in these areas will find natural models, simple identification procedures, and precise mathematical definitions of causal concepts that traditional texts have tended to evade or make unduly complicated. This book will be of interest to professionals and students in a wide variety of fields. Anyone who wishes to elucidate meaningful relationships from data, predict effects of actions and policies, assess explanations of reported events, or form theories of causal understanding and causal speech will find this book stimulating and invaluable.
Customer Reviews:
A technical approach towards causality.......2006-01-23
This is a very interesing book that Judea Pearl worte. The topic is currently of general interest for diverse fields as economics, social sciences and biology, however, this book is not intended for practitoners from these field who face a special problem and search for a possible solution. If you want to buy this book for this reason you will not be able to extract this information for this book. The reason therefor is that important technics like Bayesian Networks or Structural Equations are treated in 3 pages in each case. Judea Pearl assumes that the reader is already familiar with such methods beforehand. (Readers interested in the later subject are strongly refered to Bollen's book "Structural Equations with latent variables".)
Moreover, I do not think that this book presents state of the art information about our current knowledge of this subject. For example, the important problem to extract a network structure (structure learning) from data rather than estimating the parameters of a given networks structure is completely missing.
Nevertheless, this is a good book, because it might give you in the long run (you can not read it in one piece) insights you did not have before. Of course not to all topics causality is involved (see, e.g., above) but the given topics are thorough explained albeit on an advanced level.
Update: I add one star (total three) to my evaluation, because in the meanwhile I appreciate the historical development described in the book including references to the literature.
What is the cause of intolerance?.......2004-12-10
Pearl included an Epilogue containing a lecture he gave in 1996 entitled, "The Art and Science of Cause and Effect."
Pearl concludes the lecture by comparing his theory of causality to the first mathematical tool,the abacus: "But the really challenging problems are still ahead: We still do not have a causal understanding of poverty and cancer and intolerance, and only the accumulation of data and the insight of great minds will eventually lead to such understanding. "The data is all over the place, the insight is yours, and now an abacus is at your disposal, too. I hope the combination amplifies each of these components."
Unfortunately, virtually no advances have been made in learning the causation of intolerance nor how to rid us of it. And Judea Pearl suffered immensely because of that . . . Daniel Pearl, his son, was killed in Iraq due to intolerance. :-(
BTW, the book is great.
Important but difficult.......2004-09-16
The scientific research community has adopted rigorous methods to eliminate the need for subjective judgments about many things, but when it comes to testing whether X causes Y, they revert to intuition and hand-waving. This book makes a strong argument that we shouldn't accept that. It demonstrates that it is possible to turn intuitions about causation into hypotheses that are unambiguous and testable.
But the style is sufficiently dense and dry we will need some additional books with more practical styles before these ideas become widely understood. The style is fairly good by the standards of books whose main goal is rigorous proof, but it's still hard work to learn a large number of new concepts that are mostly referred to by terse symbols whose meaning can't be found via a glossary or index. Pearl occasionally introduces a memorable word, such as do(x), the way a software engineer who wants readable code would, but mostly sticks to single-character symbols that seem unreasonably hard (at least for us programmers who are used to descriptive names) to remember.
If you're uncertain whether reading this book is worth the effort, I strongly recommend reading the afterword first. It ought to have been used as the introduction, and without it many readers will be left wondering why they should believe they will be rewarded for slogging through so much dry material.
A Pioneering Book on Causality.......2003-04-08
This is a pioneering book dealing exhaustively with the subject of causation. Its contribution to the field of "Uncertainty in AI" is unmeasureable. It dealt with graphical models for reasoning in depth. For computer scientists looking for an encyclopedia of algorithms and applications on causation, there can not be a better book. I highly recommend this book for researchers in UAI. A word of caution: This is not a book for starters and those who do not have a well developed concept of uncertainty.
A review of "Causality".......2002-05-26
First off, the rating of three stars is relative to my expectations that this book would provide me with some insights in how to use graphical models for purposes of making inferences from statistical data and, in general, to facilitate the process of (machine) learning from data. And although Pearl and his colleagues have made great progress in this area, this book seems more targeted for researchers in areas outside of AI, such as economics, statistics, and medical research. Although the author gives a number of rigorous definitions to help support his notions of causality, the book is written in a somewhat abstract manner with few if any nontrivial examples (although enough trivial ones to satisfy a more general audience) to support the definitions and concepts. References to the literature are favored over mathematical proofs. Thus, aside from the references, I found this book of little use, but on the other hand, I do recommend it for its intended audience, for I do believe that graphical models can be of great use in these other areas.
Finally given the controversy and general misunderstanding about "causality", I wonder why Pearl would even use definitions like "causal model" and "...variable X is a causal influence of variable Y". His justification seems that researchers still think in terms of cause and effect, and thus it would serve them well if they had a mathematical foundation to fall back on.
Even if I did not have issue with some of the techniques and algorithms endorsed in this book, it would still seem much more appropriate to supply fresh, distinguished definitions (devoid of the "cause" word and its synonyms) and thus when future researchers use and make reference to Pearl's structural methods, they will call them as such and hopefully avoid confusion and controversy.
Book Description
This digital document is an article from Human Biology, published by Wayne State University Press on August 1, 2001. The length of the article is 2071 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.
Citation Details
Title: A Rooster Crow Does Not Cause the Sun To Rise: Review of Causality: Models, Reasoning and Inference.(Review)
Author: Ranajit Chakraborty
Publication:
Human Biology (Refereed)
Date: August 1, 2001
Publisher: Wayne State University Press
Volume: 73
Issue: 4
Page: 621
Article Type: Book Review
Distributed by Thomson Gale
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Nature Tourism, Conservation, and Development in Kwazulu Natal, South Africa
Manufacturer: World Bank Publications
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ASIN: 0821353500 |
Book Description
This book assesses how various institutional, policy and managerial options can enhance nature tourism's contribution to the `triple bottom line'. There are win-win outcomes but also trade offs between various policy objectives including: (1) Economic growth, (2) Poverty reduction, (3) Conservation finance/Biodiversity conservation. This collaborative report highlights the complementarities and the trade-offs in promoting and managing sustainable nature tourism development and conservation.
Nature tourism is important for many developing countries, including South Africa. If wisely managed, nature tourism offers valuable opportunities for generating revenues for development and for conservation.
The recommendations are fairly specific to the Ezemvelo KwaZulu Natal Wildlife area. By combining various options into an integrated package to achieve economic development, equity and conservation, such a balanced approach provides pro-poor tourism opportunities for local communities, by reinvesting the proceeds in on-the-ground work in the reserves and in the community. It requires collaboration with private game reserves to drop fences and could contribute to a successful transformation of wildlife management to a nature tourism economy.
Download Description
This book assesses how various institutional, policy and managerial options can enhance nature tourism's contribution to the 'triple bottom line'. There are win-win outcomes but also trade offs between various policy objectives including: (1) Economic growth, (2) Poverty reduction, (3) Conservation finance/Biodiversity conservation. This collaborative report highlights the complementarities and the trade-offs in promoting and managing sustainable nature tourism development and conservation. Nature tourism is important for many developing countries, including South Africa. If wisely managed, nature tourism offers valuable opportunities for generating revenues for development and for conservation. The recommendations are fairly specific to the Ezemvelo KwaZulu Natal Wildlife area. By combining various options into an integrated package to achieve economic development, equity and conservation, such a balanced approach provides pro-poor tourism opportunities for local communities, by reinvesting the proceeds in on-the-ground work in the reserves and in the community. It requires collaboration with private game reserves to drop fences and could contribute to a successful transformation of wildlife management to a nature tourism economy.
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Annapurna
The Last Step: The American Ascent of K2
Himalayan Quest: Ed Viesturs on the 8,000-Meter Giants
High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places
K2: Triumph and Tragedy
